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A Better Way to backup your rappel

Climbers are starting to use various backup systems more and more to safeguard rappels.  While an autoblock attached to your leg loop can work, here’s a European system that is an improvement.  I’ve tried it a lot recently, and it works great.  A picture (from Petzl) is worth many words.  Here’s how it works:

  1. Get a double length runner and tie an overhand knot in it about 1/3 of the way along.
  2. Girth hitch this runner through the tie in points on your harness.  Add a locking biner to the end.  (You just made a fast, safe and very functional daisy chain.)  Use the locker on the end to connect yourself to the anchor while you set up the rap.
  3. Attach a belay biner and your belay/rappel device to the runner, between your harness and the knot.  Thread the rope through the rap device as if you were going to rap.  (This extends the biner and rap device away from your body.)
  4. Next, attach a very short prussik around the rope below the rap device, and attach the prussik to your harness with a biner.
  5. Now you are ready to rap.  If you remove your brake hand from the rope, the prussik grabs the rope and prevents you from descending.  As the prussik only has to hold the rope with very little friction and not support your whole body weight, it’s very easy to untie after you weight it.

This setup may sound complicated, but with a bit of practice you’ll find it takes only a minute longer to set up than a normal rappel and can add a great degree of safety.
 
NOTE:  This is not yet a technique that is taught or endorsed by the Mazamas.  It is presented here merely to show you an additional method to safeguard a rappel.  If you choose to use it, practice it thoroughly in a controlled setting before ever trying it on a real climb!

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