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A better way to practice rock gear placement
Go to the base of your local cliff with a good selection of rock pro, and ideally someone who properly knows how to set gear. Before you place anything, look at the crack closely and guess which size gear will fit the best. Now, place the gear you picked. If you guessed right on the first try, give yourself one point, second try, zero points, third try or more, negative one point. Now, set 10 pieces of gear. Try to get a score of at least five points. If your score is near zero, you’re getting there, but need more ground training. If you consistently score below zero, you need a lot more practice on the ground before you ever get off the ground on a real lead.
This tip is from the new book: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide, by Craig Luebben published by The Mountaineers Books, 2007.
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