Belayer’s responsibilities to climber

The belayer has many duties beyond feeding out or taking in rope.  A good belayer, when either toproping, leading or belaying a second,  will consider doing the following:

• If you are on the ground, spot the leader before (or even after) they make the first clip! No need to “belay” if there’s no gear in.  This usually means the belayer drops the rope and stands with hands outstretched, ready to keep the leader’s head and upper body from smacking anything if they fall before clipping the first piece of gear.  The moment the leaders does clip, the belayer drops their hands to the rope and starts the belay.
• If you are with new partner and toproping, ask how much slack is desired.
• Never pull the leader off by keeping rope too tight!
• Keep the rope out of leader’s way before the first clip.
• Help build a multidirectional first placement, if needed. 
• Give encouragement to the climber, but avoid idle chatter.
• Tell leader about rope getting stuck in cracks or around horns (“flip rope”).
• Warn leader (“grounder alert”) if they are getting too run out.
• Tell leader about amount of remaining rope if it’s getting close to the end.  Use the call, “feet 2-0”.  (Most belayers underestimate the amount of rope left.)
• Make sure the rope feeds freely.  Flake the rope well, and watch for tangles.  Tarps, rope bags or duffel bags are good for this.
• Tell leader if they backclip (more of an issue when sportclimbing, not a concern with long runners).
• When the second approaches the belay, the belayer tells them two things: 1) where to clip and 2) where to stand.