Home  |  Events Calendar  |  MEMBER LOGIN  |  Join  |  Site Map  |  Search
Mazamas Logo

Resources

Belaying the second from the anchor

Most climbers start out learning to belay off of their harness.  For most snow climbs and all instances of belaying a leader, this is still the best method.  But for belaying a second when rock climbing, belaying directly from the anchor with either a Munter hitch or some version of an autolocking belay device has a host of advantages.  Here are a few of them.

Advantages . . .

  • better on difficult pitches (where fall is likely for the second), as it’s usually easier to catch and hold a fall
  • better for easy terrain (where second is moving fast and will likely not fall) as you can take in rope faster
  • puts less force on the anchor (only the weight of the second)
  • autolocks with Reverso or ATC Guide
  • belayer is free to move around more
  • easier to escape the belay and initiate a rescue
  • easy to rig 3:1 haul to haul up second if needed
  • easier to properly equalize the anchor toward the direction of load

Disadvantages . . .

  • fall directly impacts anchor (rarely a problem on rock if the anchor is stout.)