Climbing Gear strength rating chart

Climbers often wonder and worry about how strong the gear is to which we trust our lives, but few us us have ever taken the time to actually compare strength ratings.
Well, we’ve done that for you.  (This page has been posted for a few years now, but we thought spotlighting it with a Tip of the Week would be a plan now that climbing season is starting.)

Questions like these are pretty easy to answer, if you have all the data right in front of you.  Measurements are given in kilonewtons, a metric unit of force equaling 100 kilograms, or about 225 pounds.

• That bolts looks pretty good, but should I rappel off it? (That answer is yes.  A solid bolt can be 36kN, while peak rappel force is just 2kN).
• I have a sewn daisy chain.  Is it okay to belay a lead climber if I use the daisy as my only connection to the anchor?  (Probably not.  Daisy pockets are rated to just 4 kN)
• If I go from using 6mm cord to 7mm cord for a cordelette or prusik loop, how much strength is gained?  (A lot.  6mm cord is rated 6kN, while 7mm is 13kN)

The ratings will get you started on these and many other gear head questions.  See the charts on the Mazama web:  Resources—> Gear and Food Checklists.

Direct link
http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C39/