Cordelettes -  not as good as you thought

New anchor research - the sliding X is back!

The cordelette anchor system used by many of us may not be as great as we thought. John Long, author of “Climbing Anchors” and “More Climbing Anchors”, is doing extensive research on anchors for his new anchor book, soon to be published. (Long, through these books, pretty much single-handedly established the cordelette as a standard in the US.)

After lots of drop tests and force measurements for his new book, Long has found that the cordelette does NOT really equalize placements. Even in perfect alignment, when the cordelette is tied to multiple placements and the anchor is then weighted, most of the force goes on the smallest leg of the cord.
There is an extensive discussion on the web about new anchor systems.  The thread is called: “Improved sliding X: is it really safer?”

John Long himself has made many posts here about his findings. (The fact that the leading proponent of the cordelette is now saying that it doesn’t really work certainly should grab your attention!)

We’ll have to wait until the book is published for the complete results. For any leaders involved in anchor instruction during the coming spring and summer climbing season, having a look at this discussion thread and learning something about the new systems would probably be a good idea. This idea has already been introduced in the Advanced Rock program.

A summary:

• Some version of the sliding x knot is preferred for true equalization. (Yes, doing this with more than two points of protection is tricky, but that is rarely a problem in alpine climbing.)
• Tie an overhand knot in one or both arms of the sliding x to limit possible extension.
• So-called “shock loading” is really not a problem on most anchors, provided the slip is about 6 inches of less.
• A cordelette anchor is only suitable when anchor placements are one very strong and to next to each other horizontally. (Such as a bolted sport climbing anchor.)