Learn the Klemheist knot

The klemheist knot is a valuable friction knot for climbers to learn, complementing the ubiquitous prussik loop. See Freedom of the Hills or most any climbing book for illustrations on how to tie this knot. Why is the klemheist handy to know?

• A variation of the klemheist is used for tying an autoblock, the best means of backing up a rappel. (Prussik rappel backups are not reliable - a topic to be covered in an upcoming Tip of the Week.)
• A klemheist can be faster to tie than a prussik, especially if you have cold fingers or are wearing gloves.
• You can use both prussik cord or a nylon (better) or spectra (not so good) sling, meaning your gear is more versatile. In a time where you may not have a prussik loop, the klemheist made from a webbing loop can save the day.
• Note: Actual prussiks are better for the brake prusik when rigging for crevasse rescue, as they slide more easily as the rope is being pulled thorough the system.