Locking biners on the quickdraws for a safe sport anchor

Try this for a quick, safe anchor set up for bolted rock anchors. Use two long quickdraws, outfitted with 4 locking biners. Attach a quickdraw to each bolt hanger (not the chain links) and pass the rope through the two locking biners on the other ends of the draws, for toproping the second, and others. Your belayer may then immediately lower you.

The length of the draws is important, because short ones may produce a large angle, which adds unnecessary stress on the anchor. The angle should be less than 90 degrees. The lockers on the draws add peace of mind, and are especially good in a teaching setting where there will be lots of folks working the same route. Also, make sure the draws are a different color than any others you have, so you don’t grab the wrong one in the middle of a tough lead.  For more on anchor angles, see chapter 7 Belaying) in Freedom of the Hills.

Thanks to Mazama Roy Smith for submitting this Tip