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Try a short static rope for glacier travelIs the extent of your technical climbing moderate glacier routes with one or two other partners? You need a rope for the glaciers, but don’t need a dynamic lead rope, nor do you want to carry any more weight or length than you have to. Consider a 35 or 40 meter length of 8mm static rope. If your only purpose of the rope is for crevasse rescue, then you don’t need the dynamic qualities of a typical lead climbing rope. In fact, the extra stretch in a dynamic rope (especially the skinny ones) will result in a longer fall and will add unwanted stretch to any raising system you may need to build. Get the rope from a bulk cordage spool in your local climb shop. This rope will be a LOT less expensive than a new dynamic climbing rope! Mine was about $60. Be sure to use triple wrap prusiks on skinny 6mm cord to be sure your friction knots hold on the narrow diameter line. You might want to add a wash-in dry treatment for your rope such as Nikwax RopeProof or Sterling ProArid Rope dry treatment. The weight savings is amazing! My 10.0mm, 60 meter rock rope weighs 8 lbs. 10oz (3, 912 grams), or 65 grams per meter ( pretty standard for a burly rock rope). Note: The down side of using a static rope is that catching a crevasse fall will be harder, as more force is transferred to the person(s) on top. This tip is from The Mountaineering Handbook by Craig Connally, available at some local climb shops or from the Mazama Mountaineering Center. |
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