Universal crampons are your friend

Universal crampons are the ticket for much of the lower angle glacier climbing in the Pacific NW.  What’s so great about these crampons?  The main benefit is they can fit on most any kind of shoe, from running shoes up to plastic mountaineering boots, and, with a stiff boot, can handle almost any kind of terrain up to long vertical ice pitches.  They have a sturdy plastic toe and heel bail that wrap around your foot, and thus you don’t need big heavy boots with a welt on the heel to accept a “ski-binding” type crampon.  The current models are ten points rather than the standard 12, but the improved design means you won’t miss those extra 2 points in all but the steepest terrain.

These crampons allow you to use much lighter boots than before, saving you much energy in your climbing.  For easy snow climbs like Mt. Adams, try lightweight hiking boots and universal crampons.  For mixed routes with a snow/glacier approach and a rock climb (Forbidden Peak), wear universal crampons over your sticky rubber approach shoes, and you can do the whole climb with one set of footwear.  12 point crampons and huge heavy boots are not necessary for most all moderate glacier climbs.  If you want to get a new pair of crampons, please give these a close look.

Lighter weight * Allows use of lighter boots * Very secure binding * Fast size adjustment

Several manufacturers make universal crampons, in steel and aluminum, among them Grivel, Black Diamond, and Cassin.  Grivels can be rented locally in Portland at REI and Oregon mountain Community, if you want to try them out.