Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop—Reason #4

In addition to the many benefits listed above, there are two reasons NOT to belay off your harness tie in points.

Biners are designed to be loaded along the spine, not across the gate.  Belaying off the tie in points greatly increases the chance of a biner being “triaxially loaded” – that is, loaded across the gate as well as along the spine.  This significantly weakens the biner – look at the small print of the strength ratings on most biners to check this.

Here’s a quote from the US Mountain Guides Association, via email:

“When you first think about it, putting the belay biner through both tie in points seems like a good idea due to the redundancy this offers. But, this is false security because by doing this you open yourself up to two big potential problems. A carabiner clipped in this way can quite easily be loaded improperly and be triaxially loaded. It’s only about a third as strong in this configuration.  Also, with the carabiner pinned in place tightly between the two tie in points, if you don’t watch it, the rope can run across the gate and unscrew it. I know of two people dropped to the ground where I climb due to this . . . The belay loop is the only way to belay if a harness comes with one.”

Belaying off your tie in points or the belay loop is ultimately a matter of personal preference, not a major safety concern.  There are many very experienced climbers who belay both ways.  Consider harness design, manufacturer warning labels, strength of the loop, general safety and convenience, and the potential problems of belaying off the tie in points the next time you gear up for a day in the hills . . . and never let anyone tell one way is black and white, right or wrong.