“Wrap 3, pull 2” - about the strongest anchor you can build

Long a preferred method with rescue teams and others who need a super strong anchor, this anchor can also be useful for recreational climbers.

As it takes a few minutes to tie, it’s not really feasible to use it regularly as part of snow or rock pro.  However, it can be useful when setting up top ropes in an instructional setting, making a rappel anchor, or pulling your car out of a ditch.  All you need is a long (10+ feet) length of webbing. (While 1” tubular webbing is not always the best choice for actual climbing, in this case it may make sense because of it’s extra strength.)

To make this anchor, make three wraps with the webbing around a large solid object (in this case a tree) and then tie the free ends in a water knot with at least 2 inches of tail on each side of the knot. Now, pull the two strands of the webbing that do not have the knot in them, leaving the actual knot against the tree. The knot, normally the weakest part, is isolated by the friction against the tree and has minimal load on it. Four strands of webbing share the remaining load. This is super strong, and given the right circumstances, can be a good anchor trick to know.

Diagram is from Freedom of the Hills, 7th edition, The Mountaineers