Mazamas | Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI)

The ASI class for 2008 is now full. You may email to be placed on the waiting list.

Photos

Want to see some ASI action photos? Check out the new ASI photo gallery under Resources. See photos of ASI guest instructor Yvon Chouinard

Important dates for Advanced Snow and beginning Ice

December, 2007 Application and schedule available
April 14, 2008 Application deadline for High Angle Snow
April 21, 2008 Notification of acceptance
April 30, 2008 First lecture at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center
July 14, 2008 Application deadline for Summer Session - beginning Ice Climbing

General Information

The Mazama ASI program is for climbers to develop advanced skills in high angle snow and ice travel. These skills include but are not limited to crampon techniques, glacier travel, advanced crevasse rescue, high angle rescue/evacuation, anchors, and beginning ice climbing skills.

Ropes and a limited number of ice screws and ice tools will be provided for the class. Students must provide most other gear. A group gear purchase is usually arranged from a local shop for a substantial discount.

This course is intended for those climb leaders and climbers who wish to commit to a series of lectures and field sessions with the goal of learning the skills and confidence to climb and lead at the Mazama “D” and “E” level. There will be a maximum of 15 to 20 students in this class.

The 2008 course will be taught by Wim Aarts and assisted by Adam Nawrot: questions can be addressed to .

Registration Information

Applicants for this class must observe these requirements:

Mazamas Intermediate Climbing School or equivalent experience
A working understanding of crevasse rescue
Climbing resume which demonstrates a breadth of climbing on both snow and rock, with a least two climbs being Mazamas “C” level climbs
Demonstrate a commitment to the Mazamas
Age: 18 years or older at time of first lecture

The ASI class tuition is $250 for the entire class, or $150 for either the spring crevasse and rescue series or the late summer beginning ice climbing series. Payment is due at the first lecture. Non-members $300/$175

Application is done on-line or through the Mazama Mountaineering Center. One application per participant, please.

What you’ll learn . . .

Students will be taught the following skills via lectures and field sessions:

Anchors and Rope Handling

Single and multiple point anchors
Types of gear and lots of practice with: pickets, flukes, bollards, ice screws
Placement of anchors
various rope systems include single rope technique, double rope technique and rope management skills

Rescue Systems - Awareness of and ability to perform a variety of rescue techniques including:

Prussiking and ascending devices
Escaping from the belay
Advanced crevasse rescue skills
High angle rescue
Evacuation skills
Methods to carry an injured person

Glacier Travel - skills to be learned include:

Different tie in positions
Crampon techniques
Equipment & protection
Levels of snow protection
Route finding
Speed of movement & rope management
Techniques for climbing and descending steep terrain

Introductory Ice Climbing

Equipment & clothing
Characteristics of ice
Anchors & anchor placement
Footwork
Tool placement

ASI Schedule

This course is divided into two main parts - a spring session in crevasse rescue and high angle snow travel, and a late summer session in beginning ice climbing. You can take the entire class, or the spring rescue series or the late summer ice climbing series as separate modules.

NOTE: As is the case with all Mazamas classes, all lectures are free and open to anyone who wants to attend, whether or not you are enrolled in the class. Only paid participants will be allowed to participate in the field sessions. Auditing the lectures of this course can be a great way to increase your knowledge of snow and ice climbing if you are unable to commit to the entire class.

2008 Advanced Snow and Ice Schedule

Small print: This schedule is subject to change: depending on conditions, the material covered in field sessions can be done as a climbing exercise. Instructors have been known to surprise students with bivouac adventures.
All lectures start at 7:00 pm at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland OR 97215

Lecture - Wednesday April 30, 2008
Orientation and class overview. Gear review, equipment and clothing. Guest lecturer from the National Weather Service to discuss mountain weather.

Lecture - Wednesday May 7, 2008
High angle rescue/evacuation skills. After the lecture time will be spent practicing setting up rope litters/rope carries. Guest lecturers will be from Portland Mountain Rescue.
Risk discussion, hazard recognition. Anchors, crampon technique, bivouacs, nutrition.

Field - Sat-Sun May 10/11, 2008
This weekend on Mt. Hood will be used to work on anchors, belaying, crampon techniques, high angle climbing. High angle rescue/evacuation skills. This class is taught with the generous assistance of Portland Mountain Rescue. During this activity we will also be working on anchors and climbing skills. Plan on staying the night at Mazama Lodge; there will also be small group exercise where the group will be given an accident situation and asked to find a solution OR If conditions warrant we will go on our first climb.

Lecture - Wednesday May 14, 2008
Glacier travel, and route finding (as it relates to glacier travel), terrain assessment, conditioning. Review of actual accidents from Accidents in North American Mountaineering.

Field - Sat-Sun May 17-18, 2008
Field session, Mt. Hood. We’ll work on route selection, avalanche assessment anchors, belaying, French technique, high angle climbing, & down climbing skills, running belays, and horizontal & vertical hand lines, review of crevasse rescue and glacier travel . We will also be climbing high angle slopes unroped. Plan on staying the night at Mazama Lodge or in the field on a bivouac.

Lecture - Friday May 21, 2008
Advanced crevasse rescue, constructing a rope litter. Places to climb slide show. Trip planning exercise and climb preparation by students.

Field - Sat-Sun May 24-25, 2008 / Field
Advanced crevasse rescue. Students will practice the following situations; middle person goes in, two person rope teams, rappelling into a crevasse to help a victim who is stuck or unconscious. Constructing a litter in the field. Plan on staying the night at Mazama Lodge or in the field.

Field - Sat-Sun May 31/June 1, 2008 / Field
Plan on staying the night at Mazama Lodge or in the field on a climb and a bivouac. Repeat skills as needed or that we missed in the previous field sessions.

BACKUP Field session - Sat-Sun June 7/8, 2008
this weekend is reserved as a backup field session if we loose too much field teaching time due to weather and other conditions. If sufficient material has been covered, the students will be given an opportunity to plan an alpine climb.

Lecture - Wednesday July 30, 2008
Introductory Ice. Topics: equipment, clothing, anchors, characteristics of ice, and climbing technique. Ouray Colorado presentation.

Field - Sat-Sun Aug 2/3, 2008
Crampon techniques, ice axe techniques, basic ice climbing skills, and practice climbing. White River Glacier, Mt. Hood. Overnight camping at the White River campground.

Lecture - Wednesday Aug 13, 2008
Introductory Ice: multipitch techniques, light and fast concepts, climbing technique, impact Forces.

Field - Sat-Sun Aug 16/17, 2008
Crampon techniques, ice axe techniques, anchors, belay setups, rappelling on ice, and simulated leading. Escaping the belay. Elliott Glacier, Mt. Hood. Overnight camping at the Cloud Cap Saddle campground.

Lecture - Wednesday September 17, 2008
Advanced techniques, accidents and planning ice climbing trips.

Field - Sat-Sun Sept 20/21, 2008
Anchors, belay setups, hanging belays, placing protection and simulated leading. Elliott Glacier, Mt. Hood. Overnight camping at the Cloud Cap Saddle campground.

Lecture - Wednesday September 24. 2008
Students prepare the last filed session, slides of Alpine Ice climb examples, Ouray Colorado slide show.

Field - Sat-Sun Sept 27/28, 2008
Practicing all of the above skills and those who are ready will be allowed to lead. Coe and/or Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood. Overnight camping at the Cloud Cap Saddle campground. This is a 3 day weekend and can take place on the Nisqually glacier, Mt. Rainier or on Mt. Baker.

BACKUP Field session - Sat-Sun October 11/12, 2008
this weekend is reserved as a backup field session if we loose too much field teaching time due to weather and other conditions. If sufficient material has been covered, the students will be given an opportunity to plan an ice climbing session.

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