Does the thought of hanging from vertical ice get you stoked? Do you want to challenge yourself on steeper, more technical alpine routes? Mazamas’ ASI class can show you the way.
This course is intended for climbers looking to hone the skills and gain the confidence to climb and lead at the Mazama “D” and “E” level. Join us and learn the why and how of climbing techniques and rope work on steep alpine terrain, small party crevasse and high angle rescue, and technical ice climbing on alpine terrain and vertical ice walls. This class is taught by experienced volunteer Mazama climb leaders and assistants.
A sampler of concepts and skills that may be presented in ASI:
Climbing on Alpine Snow and Ice
- Equipment & clothing
- Anchors & anchor placement
- Steep snow climbing and rope-work
- Vertical ice climbing technique
- Introduction to alpine ice leading and multi-pitch climbing
Small-team Rescue Techniques
- Crevasse rescue skills – 5:1, 6:1 pulley systems, rescue for two-person teams
- High angle rescue
Building Alpine Experience
- Planning and executing climbs: routes, team selection, gear, clothing, time, weather, snow and avalanche conditions
Schedule:
The course begins in late summer and wraps into the following spring.
Summer-Autumn 2011: Technical Skills Session
- In-town: Aug 23
- In-town: Aug 25
- Field: Aug. 27-28, Mt. Hood, White River Glacier
- In-town: Sept. 7
- Field: Sept. 10-11, Mt. Hood: Eliot Glacier
- In-town: Sept. 14
- Field: Sept. 17-18, Mt. Hood, Coe & Eliot Glaciers
- In-town: Sept. 21
- Field: Sept 24-25, Mt. Adams: Adams Glacier, 2-day session
- Make-up (if needed): Oct 1-2
- Graduation climbing opportunity: January, 2012, Ouray, CO
Attendance at the first four classroom and field sessions is required to continue with the remaining classroom and field sessions.
Winter-Spring 2012: Experiential Climbing Session
Up to three climbing weekends will be planned, on Mt. Hood and/or other Cascade peaks with technical snow and ice routes. Several weekday classroom planning meetings will precede the climbing weekends. Session is planned for February-May. Exact dates to be determined following summer-autumn session.
Sessions are not separated and only those who complete the summer-autumn session in its entirety may continue into the spring session.
Course Fee:
- Members: $310
- Non-members: $425
Applicant qualifications:
ASI is designed for climbers coming in with these characteristics:
- Mazama Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) or equivalent education/experience; Students MUST have experience with building snow anchors and basic Z-systems for crevasse rescue.
- Climbing resume which demonstrates a breadth of climbing on both snow and rock, with extensive experience on Mazama B or C level climbs involving moderate-angle snow climbing (30-45°); 8 or more technical alpine climbs is recommended Include on your resume any scheduled summer 2011 climbs.
- Fitness level appropriate to steep terrain and technical climbing; a suggested reference is the ability to carry a 35 lb pack from Timberline Lodge to the top of the Palmer lift in approximately 2-1/2 hours with sufficient reserve left to complete a technical summit climb and descent.
- Ability and desire to commit to the entire course schedule
- Demonstrate a commitment to the Mazamas
- 18 years or older at time of first class session
These are minimum requirements for consideration, but do not guarantee acceptance into the program.
There will be a maximum of 9 students in this class.
Field sessions are held on alpine terrain at elevation. Sessions may include overnight camping on snow and/or alpine starts. Students must have appropriate skills and equipment. Ropes, pickets, and a limited number of ice screws and ice tools will be provided for the class. The class will be conducted on exposed terrain and/or climbing routes as conditions and skills warrant.
Registration
The application period for this class will open April 20, 2011 and close May 20, 2011. The application process includes an online form and submission of a complete resume that describes climbing education and climbing history (peaks, routes, dates, position as team leader/assistant leader/rope-leader/climber, etc.).
ASI Skills Test: June 1, 2011, 7 PM at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.
All applicants must pass a climbing competency test demonstrating skills appropriate to a competent intermediate level climber who is ready to advance to the next level. Please bring the following to the skills test: harness, belay device, foot and waist prussiks, personal protection leash, 2 locking and 4 non-locking carabiners, an ice ax, two slings/runners, and a cordelette.
Skills tested may include:
- Demonstrating the ability to tie appropriate climbing knots and explain their use an alpine situation. Knots may include any of the following: clove hitch, munter hitch, mule knot, figure 8 on a bite, rewoven figure 8, butterfly, double fisherman’s, bowline, EDK, or prussik.
- Setting up and executing a belay for a lead or following climber, with anchor and commands.
- Setting up a rappel station and rappelling with appropriate back up.
- Setting up a basic ‘Z’ (3:1) hauling system.
- Demonstrating various crampon and ice ax techniques and explaining their appropriate uses.
Notification of Acceptance
On or before June 4, 2011
More questions . . .
If you have any other class related questions, please send an e-mail to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
Info For Current Students And Assistants
Notice
Please note that information posted on this page is subject to change!
USDA Special Use Permit Information and Non-Discrimination Statement
Mazamas Education Programs operate under a special use permit with the Mt. Hood National Forest.
In accordance with Federal law and U.S. Department of Agriculture policy, the Mazamas is prohibited from discriminating on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.)
To file a complaint of discrimination, write: USDA, Director of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, D.C. 20250-9410 or call (202) 720-5964 (voice and TDD). The USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.
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