Mazamas

Important Dates for the 2008 Expedition Training Course

Tuesday, January 15 - Application Deadline
Tuesday, January 22 - First Lecture

2008 Mazamas Expedition Training Course Application

General Informaion

Have you ever dreamed of organizing your own climbing expedition to the accessible Mexican volcanoes, Alaska’s mighty Denali, exotic Ecuador or breathtaking Peru? You’ve climbed throughout the Pacific Northwest and now want to expand your climbing horizon to a foreign country and a high peak. Or how about a multi-day winter climb to a remote part of the North Cascades? Interested in learning tips and techniques of expedition life? Then join us for the Mazamas Expedition Training Course!

The course combines lectures, discussions, slide shows, field sessions and a mini-expedition. The classroom sessions are held at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center and will offer knowledge and advice on planning and organizing expeditions. They combine a lecture and discussion format and feature experienced expedition leaders. Each lecture is followed by a slide show of a recent Mazama expedition.

Climbers with actual expedition experience lead the field sessions. These weekend sessions provide hands-on training of expedition skills. The course culminates in a 4-5 day mini-expedition, where students plan and execute a multi-day ascent of a peak in expedition style. The participants in the mini-expedition meet to plan logistics, train in special techniques and ultimately climb the selected route. Previous field sessions have climbed the north face of Broken Top in winter and have attempted north face routes on Mount Rainier and Mount Baker.

Skills, techniques and information you will learn from taking the Expedition Training Course are:

• Organizing a climbing expedition from A to Z
• Selecting expedition food, preparing expedition meals, and overall nutrition
• Camping techniques for expeditions, building a snow cave, igloo, and use of Megamid tents
• Assembling expedition First Aid kits
• Rigging expedition sleds
• Selecting expedition gear and clothing
• Using avalanche beacons
• Analyzing snow packs and avalanche hazards
• Traveling in foreign countries (dos and don’ts)
• Selecting mountain guides, transport, etc.
• Accident management and evacuation training
• Physical training for an expedition
• Glacier travel techniques for expeditions

In addition to the Expedition Training Course, the Mazamas offer clinics in crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment, and other skills related to expedition travel through our Skill Builder classes.

Cost
The cost of the course will be $195/$295 members/non-members. Course size is limited to 10 students so apply early! The application deadline is January 15, 2008. Payment is due in full at the night of the first lecture.

Requirements
Students should have a sold background in alpine climbing and glacier/snow travel. This is not a climbing class. Students need to be in good physical condition. All applicants for the course must have completed the Mazamas Intermediate Climbing School (or the equivalent) and be 18 years or older.

If you have any questions or care to discuss the class, please contact the Expedition Committee chairman Chuck Aude at or 503-701-9533.

Lectures and Slide Shows

Each class night consists of a one-hour lecture followed by a one-hour slide show focused on the planning and execution of a popular expedition peak or area. The lectures are held at Mazamas Mountaineering Center at 7:00 pm.

Tuesday, January 22 - Intro Night
- Course Overview and expectations
- Denali Slide Show

Saturday, January 26 - Avalanche Lecture and Beacon Practice 8:30am - 4:30pm
This is an all day, combined lecture with Ski Mountaineering. The morning lecture will cover avalanche awareness, avoidance, rescue and beacon use. It will be followed by an afternoon beacon lecture and practice session in Gabriel Park. Bring a sack lunch.

Tuesday, January 29 - Potluck Dinner
- Hosted at a committee member’s house, this is a chance to get to know one another, set expectations of the mini-expedition, determine expedition style, begin group planning, appoint expedition leader, discuss meals, etc.
- Cordillera Blanca, Peru (Tocllaraju, Artesonraju and Huascaran Sur) Slide Show

Tuesday, February 5 - Camping and Traveling
- Camping techniques including snow caves, snow walls and Megamid use
- Sled rigging (bring sled and rigging to class)
- Ama Dablam Slide Show

Tuesday, February 12 - Gear, Guides, Food, Sponsors - Monty Smith
- Cold weather gear
- Guide services
- Food & nutrition
- Sponsors & fund-raising
- Shisha Pangma Slide Show

Monday, February 25 - Expedition Planning and Preparation - Jerry Eline
- Expedition legal issues
- Pre-trip planning
- Trip specific planning
- Traveling in foreign countries
- Slide show TBD

Tuesday, March 4 - Medical, Altitude, Training - Dr Steve Boyer
- Expedition First Aid
- Inoculation
- High altitude climbing
- Fitness & training
- Aconcagua Slide Show

Monday, March 17 - Group Dynamics, Inaccessible Areas - Keith Daellenbach
- Group Dynamics
- Traveling in and planning for inaccessible areas
- Slide show TBD

Field Sessions

Sunday, January 27 - Avalanche field session (Mount Hood)
Traveling in potential avalanche terrain, techniques for evaluating snow pack, safe route finding, beacon practice in the snow, and mock rescue practices. Avalanche beacons and shovels provided.

Saturday-Sunday, February 9-10 - Traveling, Camping I, Emergency Shelters (Mount Hood)
- rigging and traveling with sleds
- campsite selection, establishing a camp, building walls, building a latrine and kitchen tent (Megamid)
- caching gear
- expedition cooking
- snow caves, igloos, trenches and emergency shelters

Saturday-Sunday, March 8-9 - Camping II, Crevasse Rescue (Mount Hood)
- avoiding avalanche and crevasse dangers
- crevasse rescue and gear (with and without sleds)
- using ascenders and fixed lines

Thursday-Monday, March 27-31 - Mini-Expedition (Putting It All Together)
A mini simulated expedition trip to use all the skills covered in the course together. Location, route, and objective to be researched and chosen by students from a list prepared by the Expedition Committee