Expedition Grants

Expedition Grant Application .pdf file

The goal of expedition grants is to promote adventurous climbing and provide resources for climbers to explore and attempt challenging climbs. Some grants are specific to Mazama members, but we want to encourage non-Mazama as well as Mazama members to apply for the ALPINE ADVENTURE GRANT. We want to help spread the knowledge gained through these activities to the climbing community. While grants are not large enough to entirely finance an individual expedition, it is hoped that they make it possible for a few climbers to gain experience in mountain areas of the world otherwise out of reach.

All grant applications are due by Dec. 31 for expeditions to be held the next year.

As a general rule grants are not awarded to guided trips or for trips requiring extended support above base camp.

The Expedition Committee maintains records for each of the expeditions the Mazamas have sponsored.  This information is available for review.  The Mazamas also maintains a library with many alpine journals as research material.

Not all grant requesters will receive grants and funding is limited to funds on hand and our ability to raise money to give away that year.

If you are awarded a Mazamas expedition grant, you may be asked for some or all of the the following:

• A summary report of your trip detailing personnel, successes, defeats, logistics, route description, equipment used, costs, access, timetable, and any other information you feel would be useful for future researchers or climbers
• An article for the Mazamas Annual publication
• Present a slide show about your trip to either a Mazamas class or a Wednesday evening program
• Assist in teaching a class, either a field session or lecture
• The expedition committee may have additional requests or conditions

Expeditions may also be assisted through endorsement or sponsorship.

Endorsement testifies to the authenticity, legitimacy, and capability of an expedition to undertake its stated objectives. Its purpose is to help an expedition secure required permission from a foreign government to conduct the intended expedition. Expeditions using the Mazama name are subject to specific requirements.

Sponsorship differs from endorsement in that expedition contributions may be made to the Mazamas and are thereby tax deductible to the donor. All conditions required for endorsement also apply for sponsorship.

Expeditions supported by the Mazamas

2010 Expedition Grants
Coast Range, British Columbia - new route attempt on Mount Ambition - Nate Farr and Blake Harrington
Aconcagua, False Polish, Argentina - Keith Langenwalter
Portland to Hauraz, Peru - various climbs in the Cordillera Blanca - David Byrne, Terry Campbell, Preston Corless, Chris Cosgriff, Jed Stasch, Dan Hafley, Asia Henderson

2009 Expedition Grants
East Face of Caraz II (19,750 feet), Cordillera Blanca, Peru - new route attempt - Nate Farr and Marcus Donaldson

2008 Expedition Grants
Putha Hiunchuli, central Nepal Himalayas. Pete Dronkers,
Himlung Himal, Northern Nepal Himalayas. First American ascent. Kern Buckner, David Byrne, Preston Corless and Keith Campbell (All Mazama)

2007 Expedition Grants
Denali 2007 “Ten Fingers Ten Toes” West Buttress Expedition (Chuck Aude, Shawn Donley, Keith Dubanevich, Kari Friedewald, Jim Hashimoto)
Kahiltna Base Camp Climbs (Dani Evenson, Harry Hunt)
Mount Logan, Canada ski-mountaineering ascent/descent (Jeff Levison, Chris Cannon, Heidi Rader, Olin Twitchell, Luke Smith)
First ascent expedition to the Genyen region of China (Mark Allen, Joel Kauffman, Meaghan Loughlin)

2006 Expedition Grants
First Ascents in the North Cascades and British Columbia - Michael Layton
Beckey Direct (film documentary & FA in Western China) - Fred Beckey
Pico de Orizaba, Mexico - Chuck Aude and Larry Martin
Aconcagua, Argentina - Shawn Donley
Kitchatna Spire, Alasaka - Pete Guagliardo and Bill Amos
Nanga Parbat—Rupal Face alpine style, Pakistan Steve House and Vince Anderson

2005 Expedition Grants
Denali, South Buttress - Robert Lee, Ruthann Lee, Dave Pyszkowski, and Preston Corless (all Mazamas members)
New Zealand Expedition - Mazama Explorer Post
Stewart Valley, Baffin Island Big wall first ascent - Pete Dronkers (Mazamas member)
Cordillerra Blanca/Boliva - Eric Hoem (Mazamas member)
Shisha Pangma, Tibet - Monty Smith (Mazamas member)

2004 Expedition Grants
Moose’s Tooth, Alaska Range
First Ascent of the Avellano Towers, Patagonia
First Ascent of Mount Blachnitzky, Juneau Ice Fields, Alaska
New Route on the North Face of Mount Kalanka, Eastern Garwhal Himal, India
SE Ridge Ama Dablam, Nepal Himalaya (all Mazama expedition)
New Route on the North Face of Mt Russell, Alaska Range

2003 Expedition Grants
Zanskar River - First Ice Ascents in the Zanskar mountains in India
Rumdoodle - West Buttress of Denali, Alaska Range
NW Face of Pucajirca North I, Nevado Ulta, S America
Con Los Condores , Huascaran, Chile

2002 Expedition Grants
Flame Spire Expedition, Trango Group, Karakoram Pakistan
Tell the Tale 2002, West Buttress Denali Alaska
2002 Aconcagua Documentary Expedition
Mt Logan, King Trench Route, St. Elias Range, Canada
Northern Exposure 2002 – Ellesmere Island Exploratory Expedition

2001 Expedition Grants
Aconcagua 2001 Polish Glacier Expedition
Artesonraju and Huascaran, Peru
Denali, West Buttress, Alaska
Juneau Icefield Traverse, Alaska
Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Island and Mera Peak, Nepal

2000 Expedition Grants
American K2 North Ridge Expedition
Explorer Post, New Zealand

1999 Expedition Grants
Mazama Explorer Post, New Zealand
Little Switzerland, Alaska Range

1998 Expedition Grants
Argentina Andes expedition
Ecuador - Chimborazo & Cotopaxi

1997 Expedition Grants
Adventure at 62 North - Little Switzerland, Alaska
Ecuadorian Escapade ‘97 - Ecuador
Mazamas Explorer Post - New Zealand

1996 Expedition Grants
Cerro Aconcagua 1996 Northwest Expedition - Aconcagua, Argentina
Mazama Alpinistas a Bolivia - Bolivia

1995
1995 West Rib Story - Denali, Alaska
1995 Aconcagua Sueno Expedicion - Cerro Aconcagua, Argentina

1994 Expedition Grants
Mazama Denali ‘94 - Denali, Alaska
Denali Story - Denali, Alaska
Clavering Island Sea Kayak Expedition - Greenland
Sagarmatha Environmental Expedition - Mt. Everest, Nepal

1993 Expedition Grants
American-Canadian K2 Expedition - K2, Pakistan
Mt. Logan Teleski Expedition - Mt. Logan, Canada

1992 Expedition Grants
Mazamas Starbird Range Expedition - Purcell Range, Canada
American-Soviet K2 Expedition - K2, Pakistan

1992 Expedition Grants
Mazama Ecuador Expedition - Ecuador

1991 Expedition Grants
Manaslu Expedition - Manaslu, Nepal
Arrigetch Expedition - Brooks Range, Alaska