Climbing Gear Strength Ratings

Ever wonder how strong that pro or gear really is? Here’s a list to get you started, and maybe help you win an argument or two. I’ve wanted to see a list like this for a long time, and after scouring the web and not finding any, decided to make my own.
Metric notes: A kilonewton (kN) is a metric unit of force, equal to 100 kilograms, or about 225 lbs. Ratings are rounded to the nearest kN.

Compiled by John Godino, Mazamas, Feb 2006. Please send all comments, updates, and verbal thrashings to

Sources: http://www.fishproducts.com, tech pages, The Mountaineering Handbook, by Craig Connally, published 2005, and checking the gear ratings on some of my own stuff and in the local rock shop.

Table 1 - gear listed in descending strength rating
Gear	Strength	Source
new 3” x 3/8” bolt	36 kN	fishproducts.com
10.5 mm rope	30 kN	fishproducts.com
Petzl Attache biner (gate closed)	23 kN	stamped/written on gear
Mammut sewn spectra 8mm sling	22 kN	stamped/written on gear
1” tubular webbing	18 kN	fishproducts.com
11/16” tubular webbing	17 kN	fishproducts.com
5.5 mm Gemini "tech" cord, knotted	17 kN	fishproducts.com
harness belay loop (minimum rating)	15 kN	Connally, pg 123
ice screw in exceptional ice	15 kN	Connally, pg 125
7mm nylon cord (Roca)	13 kN	from a spool of cord
medium stopper	12 kN	stamped/written on gear
large stopper	12 kN	stamped/written on gear
sewn spectra/nylon sling	12 kN	stamped/written on gear
ice screw in decent ice	10 kN	Connally, pg 125
old-school 1/4" buttonhead bolt	10 kN	fishproducts.com
theoretical max. force possible in a climbing fall	9 kN	Connally, pg 118
6mm nylon cord (Roca)	8 kN	from a spool of cord
Petzl Attache biner (cross loaded)	7 kN	stamped/written on gear
5mm nylon cord (Roca)	6 kN	from a spool of cord
ice screw in mediocre ice	5 kN	Connally, pg 125
#2 HB brass stopper	5 kN	general hearsay
sewn daisy chain pocket	4 kN	Connally, pg 108
4mm nylon cord (Roca)	4 kN	from a spool of cord
Yates screamer activates	2 kN	Connally, pg 121
peak force on a rappel anchor	2 kn	Connally, pg 115

Table 2 - gear listed by category
Category	Gear	Strength	Source
bolts	new 3” x 3/8” bolt	36 kN	fishproducts.com
	old-school 1/4" buttonhead bolt	10 kN	fishproducts.com

rope, harness	10.5 mm rope	30 kN	fishproducts.com
	harness belay loop (minimum rating)	15 kN	Connally, pg 123

biners	Petzl Attache biner (gate closed)	23 kN	stamped/written on gear
	Petzl Attache biner, (cross loaded)	7 kN	stamped/written on gear

webbing	Mammut sewn spectra 8mm sling	22 kN	stamped/written on gear
	1” tubular webbing	18 kN	fishproducts.com
	11/16” tubular webbing	17 kN	fishproducts.com
	5.5 mm Gemini "tech" cord, knotted	17 kN	fishproducts.com
	sewn spectra/nylon sling	12 kN	stamped/written on gear

cord	7mm nylon cord (Roca)	13 kN	from a spool of cord
	6mm nylon cord (Roca)	8 kN	from a spool of cord
	5mm nylon cord (Roca)	6 kN	from a spool of cord
	4mm nylon cord (Roca)	4 kN	from a spool of cord

stoppers	medium stopper	12 kN	stamped/written on gear
	large stopper	12 kN	stamped/written on gear
	#2 HB brass stopper	5 kN	general hearsay

theoretical max force possible in a climbing fall		9 kN	Connally, pg 118

screws	ice screw in exceptional ice	15 kN	Connally, pg 125
	ice screw in decent ice	10 kN	Connally, pg 125
	ice screw in mediocre ice	5 kN	Connally, pg 125

misc.	sewn daisy chain pocket	4 kN	Connally, pg 108
	Yates screamer activates	2 kN	Connally, pg 121
	peak force on a rappel anchor	2 kn	Connally, pg 115

- back -