Tip of the Week

This is the home page for all the Mazama Tips of the Week. We hope there are enough tips here to keep you busy for awhile!

If you have a tip you'd like to share, we're always looking for good ideas. Please send them to the Mazama web gnomes and we'll consider them.

This Week's Tip > Belayer’s responsibilities to climber

The belayer has many duties beyond feeding out or taking in rope. A good belayer, when either toproping, leading or belaying a second, will consider doing the following:

If you are on the ground, spot the leader before (or even after) …

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General Mountaineering

Eat and drink on the way to your climb

Earplugs

A knife for alpine routes

Taking in coils – how to shorten the rope on varied terrain

Cut webbing at a 45 degree angle

Bring your own alarm clock

Post climb comfort

Wear your watch on your neck

Steve House talks gear - video

A leash for your pack

Opening a stuck locking biner

Racking your runners - Do the Twist

Emergency contact info - what you need to share

Mark your climbing gear with fingernail polish

Alpine runners - a good length

The right way to tie into a harness

Keep a climb journal

Stow your ice axe fast while scrambling short rock sections

Daisy chain - where to attach it

Don’t clip the end loop on your daisy chain

Bring a few long tied runners for alpine routes

Rock Climbing

A better way to practice rock gear placement

Jim Bridwell’s Casual Rating System

Learn to place rock pro by bounce testing

Cleaning stoppers

Duffle bag at the crag

Climbing maps - a better way to carry for rock climbing

Alpine rock pro - the basic rack

Locking biners on the quickdraws for a safe sport anchor

Snow Climbing

Glissading - not always your best option for descent

How to warm cold fingers

Crevasse rescue – choose your Rig for the level of Risk

A bit of tubing for glacier travel

Try a short static rope for glacier travel

An axe and a trekking pole

How to always have dry socks with only two pairs

Crevasse rescue tips - Pulleys and mechanical advantage 101

Get rid of your ice axe leash

Running belays - Middle person on a friction knot

Running belays - Max party size

Running belays - Consider a whistle

Running belays - The better way to rack pickets

Snow climbing tips

Assessing a possible avalanche slope

Dividing a rope for glacier travel

Neoprene gloves for winter

Cold weather water bottle tips

Tent anchors in snow

Melt snow while climbing

Universal crampons are your friend

Anchors and Knots

Two common mistakes in building rock anchors

"Wrap 3, pull 2" - about the strongest anchor you can build

Cordelettes - not as good as you thought

The importance of being EARNEST - a mnemonic for anchors

Use a door for climbing anchor practice

Uses of the butterfly knot

Get hitched - Learn the Tautline and Trucker's hitch

Learn the Klemheist knot

Belay and Rappel

Belayer’s responsibilities to climber

Belaying the second from the anchor

Belay communication - Rope pull signals

Snow belay tip – don’t use a “quickie” belay on a crevasse crossing

Speeding up a group rappel

Stuck rappel ropes - use brains, then brawn

Backing up a rappel anchor

Rapping with a heavy pack

Faster rappelling with a group

Rappel tip - Don't cross the lines

Hip belay tips

Belay tip - On which side of the body to tie into the anchor?

Rappel tip - Avoid rope snags

How many hand spans to the center of the rope?

Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #1

Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #2

Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #3

Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #4

A Better Way to backup your rappel

Belay brake hand - Palm up or palm down?

Passing a knot while belaying

A few rappel tips . . .

Adding friction to a rappel

Avoid the prussik as a rappel backup knot

Backcountry Skills

Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Nutrition

Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Clothing

Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Navigation

Carry some Tyvek paper

Expedition hygiene - 4 items for your kit

The perfect backcountry storage bottles

Top 10+ reasons why “hydration systems” are Less Than Ideal

Warmer bivys - arms inside that parka

Creek crossing safety

Melting snow for water

Start out with warm water on a winter hike or climb

Hiking really IS good for you

Organize your pack with stuff sacks

Avoid trailhead theft

Keep your water cold

Clean that smelly water bottle

Estimating daylight time

High elevation camping - night moves

Winter camping fires

Fire starting tip - plastic tubing

Fire starting tip - bicycle inner tube

Bear-proof your food - hang it on a rock

Car camping food containers

Staying clean on the trail

Hot weather camping tip: Keeping drinks cool

Hot weather camping tip: Use a plant mister

Gearhead's Delight

Gearspeak: What’s an “HMS” carabiner, anyway?

The perfect climbing watch

"Cheapskate locker" - use tape on a carabiner gate

How to clean your rope

Metric and inches - conversion chart for backpack volume

Dry out those boots

Hose clamps for a ski pole fix

Wire in the fix it kit

How to test boots for a good fit

Duct tape - carrying methods

Care of trekking poles

Tent colors

Tyvek - the perfect groundcloth

Garbage bags - extra strength for the backcountry

What's a kilonewton? Physics 101 for climbers

A great walking stick

A caution on compression stuff sacks

Electrical cord ties - great in the fix-it kit

Keep your soft shells in prime condition

Avoid fabric softener with your outdoor undies

Color code your runners

Sleeping bag liners

LED "keychain" lights

A cartridge stove cold weather tip

Quicklinks for alpine rappels

Do It Yourself (DIY) Gear Making and Modification

A Better Way to carry your cleaning tool

Do it Yourself (DIY): leashless ice tool tether

Make your own Gu

Do-It-Yourself Glove Retainers

Gaitor modification - replace that cord with a wire

Homemade chalk ball

Fix that rip - with seam grip

Shoe protection

Add gear loops to your pack for alpine climbing

Make a hanging stove

Winterize your ice axe

Modify your Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness - add a belay loop

Quick candle lantern

Another quick candle lantern

Lightweight pot lid

A lighter sleeping pad

Homemade alcohol stove

First Aid

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) - a quick field check

No more blisters with polyester dress socks

Benzoin + duct tape = no blisters

Best way to carry benzoin for first aid kits

The "Five F's for climber fatigue

Glove storage for your first aid kit

Blisters - first aid tip

A cure for altitude sickness?

Two inch velcro for the first aid kit: lightweight, adjustable material for splints

A slick way to carry pills in your First Aid kit

Giardiasis - Backcountry water may be safer than you think

Route Planning and Navigation

Use Google Earth (GE) for route planning

Navigation Tips from the Mountaineers

Use the zoom on your digital camera to help with routefinding

Navigation Tip – Use a “finger scale”

Debrief after your climb

What to do if you are lost

How not to get lost

Using your altimeter watch more effectively

"Get lucky" by waiting for better weather

Get more from your web weather forecast

A (possible) faster route through Seattle

Get sunrise, sunset and moon phases from the web

Route information - Know the ups and the downs

Importance of a "Ground Plan" for climbing

Weatherproofing your maps

Food and Nutrition

Chocolate milk as a recovery drink

Hydration tips, part 1 - Why you need to drink in the mountains

Hydration tips, part 2 - How much and when

Bananas - the perfect pre-trip food

Condiment packets for backcountry dining

Sugar cubes

Home-made sport drink

Caffeinated climbing

"Ensure" your climbing success

Brown rice syrup as an alternative to Gu

Forms & Paperwork | Conservation | General Info | Leader Profiles | Links | Lodge | MMC

Resources

Tip of the Week

This Week's Tip > Belayer’s responsibilities to climber

General Mountaineering

Rock Climbing

Snow Climbing

Anchors and Knots

Belay and Rappel

Backcountry Skills

Gearhead's Delight

Do It Yourself (DIY) Gear Making and Modification

First Aid

Route Planning and Navigation

Food and Nutrition