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Tip of the Week

This is the home page for all the Mazama Tips of the Week. We hope there are enough tips here to keep you busy for awhile!

If you have a tip you'd like to share, we're always looking for good ideas. Please send them to the Mazama web gnomes .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) and we'll consider them.


This Week's Tip > Best compasses for wilderness navigation

The backcountry navigator has many options when it comes to buying a compass. The bad news: many of these are inappropriate for wilderness use. The good news: a handful of them are terrific, and one in particular has dropped dramatically in price.

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General Mountaineering

Team of three, one rope, both seconds climb together
Use “Airplane mode” for backcountry cell phones
Downward Bound –options for faster downclimbing
Cell Phones in the Backcountry – 3 Tips to Conserve Battery Power
Protect a descent with “downleading”
Improve your downclimbing skills
Climb faster – by stopping less
Mountain ranges of Oregon - Can you name them?
How to warm up cold fingers
Route descriptions: Difference between Grade, Class and Mazama grade
Planning for climbs - a timeline
Have a “plan B” for climbs - bring an extra guidebook
Eat and drink on the way to your climb
Earplugs
A knife for alpine routes
Taking in coils – how to shorten the rope on varied terrain
Cut webbing at a 45 degree angle
Bring your own alarm clock
Post climb comfort
Wear your watch on your neck
Steve House talks gear - video
A leash for your pack
Opening a stuck locking biner
Racking your runners - Do the Twist
Emergency contact info - what you need to share
Mark your climbing gear with fingernail polish
Alpine runners - a good length
The right way to tie into a harness
Keep a climb journal
Stow your ice axe fast while scrambling short rock sections
Daisy chain - where to attach it
Don’t clip the end loop on your daisy chain
Bring a few long tied runners for alpine routes

Rock Climbing

Ascending a rope with a Gri-Gri
How to make tape gloves for crack climbing
Extend your reach to make a high stopper placement
The Frugal Climber - knotting your own aiders and daisy chains
The "Do-More-Than-One-Stinking-Pull-up" Routine
Rock Climb with Precision Footwork
Sneaky rope trick: Using an existing rope to set up a top rope
Shortening a longer runner for racking
Shortening a hex sling
Securing yourself when building anchors on a cliff top
Keeping a fixed rope away from sharp rocks
Handwarmers for the chalk bag
Big Wall Climbing videos with Chris McNamara
An instant rope pad
Chalk bag on 7mm cord
Creative quickdraws
A better way to practice rock gear placement
Jim Bridwell’s Casual Rating System
Learn to place rock pro by bounce testing
Cleaning stoppers
Duffle bag at the crag
Climbing maps - a better way to carry for rock climbing
Alpine rock pro - the basic rack
Locking biners on the quickdraws for a safe sport anchor

Snow Climbing

Two on a glacier – tie knots in the rope
Glacier travel tip - secure your foot prusik with tape
Bring two shirts for sweaty approach hikes
Glove tip - bring 2 pair
Glissading - not always your best option for descent
How to warm cold fingers
Crevasse rescue – choose your Rig for the level of Risk
A bit of tubing for glacier travel
Try a short static rope for glacier travel
An axe and a trekking pole
How to always have dry socks with only two pairs
Crevasse rescue tips - Pulleys and mechanical advantage 101
Running belays - Max party size
Running belays - Middle person on a friction knot
Running belays - Consider a whistle
Running belays - The better way to rack pickets
Snow climbing tips
Assessing a possible avalanche slope
Dividing a rope for glacier travel
Neoprene gloves for winter
Cold weather water bottle tips
Tent anchors in snow
Ice axe tip - replace your wrist loop with a lanyard
Melt snow while climbing
Universal crampons are your friend

Anchors and Knots

Shortening a sling - do the twist
Shortening a sling - multiple wraps on a biner
Try the Garda Knot for quick hauling
Slinging a boulder for an anchor - two cautions
Two common mistakes in building rock anchors
"Wrap 3, pull 2" - about the strongest anchor you can build
Cordelettes - not as good as you thought
The importance of being EARNEST - a mnemonic for anchors
Use a door for climbing anchor practice
Uses of the butterfly knot
Get hitched - Learn the Tautline and Trucker's hitch
Learn the Klemheist knot

Belay and Rappel

Hair or clothing stuck in rappel device? How to get unstuck
Passing a knot on a single rope rappel
Speeding up a rappel – call off belay first
Try the 'Ropebomb' for slab rappels
Rappel tip - Getting the knot past an obstacle
Munter hitch rappel - removing the twists
Stuck rappel rope? Try the “rubber band” trick
Belayer’s responsibilities to climber
Belaying the second from the anchor
Belay communication - Rope pull signals
Snow belay tip – don’t use a “quickie” belay on a crevasse crossing
Speeding up a group rappel
Stuck rappel ropes - use brains, then brawn
Backing up a rappel anchor
Rapping with a heavy pack
Faster rappelling with a group
Rappel tip - Don't cross the lines
Hip belay tips
Belay tip - On which side of the body to tie into the anchor?
Rappel tip - Avoid rope snags
How many hand spans to the center of the rope?
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #1
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #2
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #3
Why to use your harness belay/rappel loop -- Reason #4
A Better Way to backup your rappel
Belay brake hand - Palm up or palm down?
Passing a knot while belaying
A few rappel tips . . .
Adding friction to a rappel
Avoid the prussik as a rappel backup knot

Backcountry Skills

Keep your water from freezing in a snow camp
Fire starting tip - waxed cardboard
Get water on the Go - 3 tips
Face your tent door into the breeze to avoid bugs
Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Nutrition
Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Clothing
Get more out of your conditioning hikes - Navigation
Carry some Tyvek paper
Expedition hygiene - 5 items for your kit
The perfect backcountry storage bottles
Top 10+ reasons why “hydration systems” are Less Than Ideal
Warmer bivys - arms inside that parka
Melting snow for water
Creek crossing safety
Start out with warm water on a winter hike or climb
Hiking really IS good for you
Organize your pack with stuff sacks
Avoid trailhead theft with a "Climber's Wallet"
Keep your water cold
Clean that smelly water bottle
Estimating daylight time
High elevation camping - night moves
Winter camping fires
Fire starting tip - plastic tubing
Fire starting tip - bicycle inner tube
Bear-proof your food - hang it on a rock
Car camping food containers
Staying clean on the trail
Hot weather camping tip: Keeping drinks cool
Hot weather camping tip: Use a plant mister

Gearhead's Delight

Protect your goggles from getting broken in your pack
Gear we love - NOLS Thelma fly
Sun protection when wearing a helmet - two options
Sterling rope technical manual
Lightcap 300 - Solar-powered lantern and water bottle
American Alpine Institute tip: What goes in a guide's pack?
Nail polish marks The Spot on your adjustable crampons
Use a “sparker” for lighting stoves
Fix your broken tent poles
Climbing Gear strength rating chart
Use shrink-wrap tubing to seal ends on cord
Batteries - change ‘em and charge ‘em
A better rechargeable battery
Gearspeak: What’s an “HMS” carabiner, anyway?
The perfect climbing watch
"Cheapskate locker" - use tape on a carabiner gate
How to clean your rope
Metric and inches - conversion chart for backpack volume
Dry out those boots
Hose clamps for a ski pole fix
Wire in the fix it kit
How to test boots for a good fit
Duct tape - carrying methods
Care of trekking poles
Tent colors
Tyvek - the perfect groundcloth
Garbage bags - extra strength for the backcountry
What's a kilonewton? Physics 101 for climbers
A great walking stick
A caution on compression stuff sacks
Electrical cord ties - great in the fix-it kit
Keep your soft shells in prime condition
Avoid fabric softener with your outdoor undies
Color code your runners
Sleeping bag liners
LED "keychain" lights
A cartridge stove cold weather tip
Quicklinks for alpine rappels

Do It Yourself (DIY) Gear Making and Modification

DIY - New grips for your hiking poles
DIY - Mark your locking carabiners for safety
DIY - make a windscreen for your cannister micro stove
DIY - Take better photos with the “Mountaineer’s Monopod”
DIY – ensolite bivy sleeping pad
DIY - Mark your tent stakes for easier tracking
DIY - A Better Way to carry your cleaning tool
DIY - Leashless ice tool tether
DIY - Make your own Gu
DIY - Glove Retainers
DIY - Replace that gaitor cord with a wire
DIY - Homemade chalk ball
DIY - Fix that rip with seam grip
DIY - Protect shoe threads with super glue
DIY - Add gear loops to your pack for alpine climbing
DIY - Make a hanging stove
DIY - Winterize your ice axe
DIY - Add a belay loop to your Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness
DIY - Quick candle lantern
DIY - Another quick candle lantern
DIY - Lightweight pot lid
DIY - Trim down your foam sleeping pad
DIY - Homemade alcohol stove

First Aid

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) - a "scorecard" for field assessment
Steri Strips for the first aid kit
Tick removal made easy
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) - a quick field check
No more blisters with polyester dress socks
Benzoin + duct tape = no blisters
Best way to carry benzoin for first aid kits
The "Five F's for climber fatigue
Glove storage for your first aid kit
Blisters - first aid tip
A cure for altitude sickness?
Two inch velcro for the first aid kit: lightweight, adjustable material for splints
A slick way to carry pills in your First Aid kit
Giardiasis - Backcountry water may be safer than you think

Route Planning and Navigation

Best compasses for wilderness navigation
Map geeks only - the UTM coordinates system explained
Map geeks only - Public Lands Survey (PLS) system explained
How to print perfect maps (or most any kind of image file)
A great mapping app for the Iphone
Do I need a sighting mirror on my compass?
The Suunto M3 compass - one of the best for wilderness navigation
Free maps with Gmap4
What’s a global compass?
Santiam Alpine Club – GPS tracks of Oregon peaks
New on Google maps: Earth View
Permit exchange forum on cascadeclimbers.com
Youtube - Wilderness Navigation training videos
Interactive Maps of Wilderness Areas
Reminder - Free Maps on the Mazamas web
Crafty way to fold a map
Another reason to always use a map (and brain) with your GPS
Free shaded topo maps with Google maps Terrain View
Measure distance on maps with pen marks on your compass string
Why the “triangulation technique” to get unlost is a bad idea
Try the sport of orienteering for map and compass practice
Bring two maps at different scales
Carry some surveyor’s tape
Navigation Tip - "The Rule of 2"
Use a Route Card - the navigator's helper
Use Google Earth (GE) for route planning
Navigation Tips from the Mountaineers
Use the zoom on your digital camera to help with routefinding
Navigation Tip – Use a “finger scale”
Debrief after your climb
What to do if you are lost
How not to get lost
Using your altimeter watch more effectively
"Get lucky" by waiting for better weather
Get more from your web weather forecast
A (possible) faster route through Seattle
Get sunrise, sunset and moon phases from the web
Route information - Know the ups and the downs
Importance of a "Ground Plan" for climbing
Weatherproofing your maps

Food and Nutrition

Cost Plus World Market for the backcountry gourmet
Chocolate milk as a recovery drink
Hydration tips, part 1 - Why you need to drink in the mountains
Hydration tips, part 2 - How much and when
Bananas - the perfect pre-trip food
Condiment packets for backcountry dining
Sugar cubes
Home-made sport drink
Caffeinated climbing
"Ensure" your climbing success
Brown rice syrup as an alternative to Gu
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