Intermediate Climbing School (ICS)

Intermediate Climbing School Application Form

Photos

Want to see some ICS action photos? Check out the new ICS photo gallery under Resources.

Important Dates for ICS 2009-2010

All events and lectures take place at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 7:00PM, unless otherwise specified.

Thursday, Aug 13, 2009, 7:00PM ICS information Night
Thursday, August 20, 2009 Application Deadline
Thursday, August 27, 2009, 7:00PM ICS Skills Test
Thursday, September 3, 2009 Notification of Acceptance
Thursday, September 10, 2009, 6:30PM First lecture and payment due

General Information

The Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), which takes place from September to April, builds on the material taught in the Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) and provides participants with the skills needed to safely climb in more challenging alpine environments, both with Mazama climbing teams and in private climbing teams.

The curriculum will include additional knots, glacier travel, rock and snow anchor building, map and compass navigation, avalanche awareness, avalanche transceiver training, accident management training, crevasse rescue, high angle snow practice, cleaning 5th class rock and 5th class rock climbing.

All students will learn the necessary skills to:

Join with any three other classmates, organize and execute a climb of any ‘A’ or ‘B’ level Mazama climb
Serve as a competent assistant on a ‘C’ level climb
Climb effectively on a ‘D’ level climb
Develop working climbing relationships with your classmates
Provide a foundation for advanced mountaineering education and experience

ICS is a demanding commitment in terms of time and gear, so please apply only if you can make the necessary commitment. Please have a look at the class calendar to get an idea of the time required.

As many students will be admitted as make a satisfactory showing during the application process. The class is open to Mazama members ($395) and non-members ($455). Web payment is strongly preferred and is due prior to the start of the first lecture. Due to the competitive nature of the ICS application process, no refunds will be issued once payment for the class has been remitted. The minimum age for students is 21.

Factors which may help your admission are:

Complete submission of the required application materials
Strong showing in the Application process
Volunteer service with Mazamas (committee work, leadership in BCEP or elsewhere, etc.)
Membership – all other things being equal, Mazama members will receive preference for admission to the class

Class correspondence will be conducted primarily via email. Please address general class questions to (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

Application forms are available online and must be completed online (see the link at the top of this page).

The primary text for this course is Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 7th Edition. Other texts will be recommended throughout the class.

As much as possible, classroom sessions will include hands-on activities. Please wear comfortable clothing and shoes to lecture, including clothing with which a harness may be worn.

Each ICS student is responsible for providing his/her own climbing gear and equipment, except for ropes, pickets, avalanche transceivers, ice screws and shovels. Each field session prospectus includes a list of required equipment.

The leaders for the 2009-2010 ICS class are Jay Stagnone, ICS Lead Coordinator and, Bob Murphy, ICS Assistant Coordinator.

Application Process

Because ICS is a popular class and requires certain skills and knowledge as a foundation, potential students must apply for admission to ICS. All application materials are due by Thursday, August 21st, 2009. The online application form is automatically forwarded to the class coordinators; all other materials should be emailed to (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

The ICS Application is composed of the following four required parts:

Completed Application Form – due by Thursday, August 20, 2009 . Follow the link at the top of this page to fill out the application form.
Climb Resume – due by Thursday, August 20, 2009. Applicants should be able to list: at least two successful snow climbs, at least two successful rock climbs, where 5th class rock was protected, and all climbing-related training and education. Please submit your climb resume to (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
Climb Leader recommendations – due by Thursday, August 20, 2009. You can have a leader give recommendations to you or they may submit them directly to (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address), if they prefer.
ICS Skills Test - August 27, 2009, 7:00PM at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.

Skills Test

The ICS Skills Test on August 28th, 2009, 7:00PM will require that you perform the following skills correctly the first time:

Setting up and executing a top-rope belay, with ground anchor and commands
Rappel using two friction methods – ATC, Figure-8, munter hitch, carabiner-brake, etc.
Knots – tie the following on the first demonstration: overhand, water knot, figure-8 on a bight, re-woven figure-8, double fisherman’s knot, prusik hitch, clove hitch, girth hitch, münter hitch
Pass through protection – putting on harness, roping up for glacier travel, passing through pro
Belay a following climber using a standard belay method

Please bring a climbing harness, carabiners, belay device and personal protection (a.k.a. safety leash) in order to execute all of the ICS skills test components.

Class Completion Requirements

To complete ICS and receive a graduation certificate, ICS students must:

Attend each of the lectures and field sessions in the calendar below
Be current in CPR
Complete the Mazamas Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) class. This class is offered every October and February. You are encouraged to apply for MFA at the same time as you apply to ICS.
Assist with a BCEP group

Excepting emergencies or prior arrangements made with the lead coordinator, a student may be dropped from the class at the lead coordinator’s discretion if he or she fails to attend one or more lectures and/or field sessions.

Study Materials

Here are some recommended books for ICS. Some are available at the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a discount:

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, (7th edition), published by The Mountaineers Books. This is a required text for the course.
The Mountaineering Handbook, by Craig Connally
The Illustrated Guide to Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel, by Tyson and Clelland
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to take you Higher by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley

ICS Class Calendar (subject to minor revision)

All lectures are free and open to the public, whether or not you are enrolled in the class. Only paid participants will be allowed to participate in the field sessions. If you plan to audit the class please alert the class coordinators, do not take any handouts and go easy on questions.

Lectures are at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (Click here for a Map to the MMC) and start at 7:00 pm, unless otherwise specified. Field exercises are listed in bold italics.
Thursday, August 13, 2009. Information Night
Thursday, August 20, 2009. Application Deadline
Thursday, August 27, 2009. Skills Test
Thursday, September 3, 2009. Notification of Acceptance
Thursday, September 10, 2009. Anchors, Belay and Rappel - lecture (@ 6:30PM)
Saturday, September 12, 2009. ABR Day 1 - field
Sunday, September 13, 2009. ABR Day 2 - field
Thursday, September 17, 2009. Single Pitch and Sport Climbing - lecture
Saturday, September 19, 2009. Single Pitch and Sport Climbing - Day 1 - field
Sunday, September 20, 2009. Single Pitch and Sport Climbing - Day 2 - field

Thursday, October 1, 2009. Multipitch and Alpine Rock Climbing - lecture
Saturday, October 3, 2009. Multipitch Climbing - Day 1 - field
Sunday, October 4, 2009. Multipitch Climbing - Day 2 - field

Thursday, November 19, 2009. Navigation - lecture - 6:30PM @ MMC
Saturday, November 21, 2009. Navigation - field - 8:00AM @ MMC, 11:45AM @ Powell Butte

Thursday, December 10, 2009. Avalanche Avoidance lecture - 6:30PM @ MMC
Saturday, December 12, 2009. Beacon Practice Day 1 - field
Sunday, December 13, 2009. Beacon Practice Day 2 - CANCELLED

Thursday, January 7, 2010. Snow Camping - lecture STARTS AT 7:30PM!!!
Saturday, January 9, 2010. Snow Camp Session (overnight) - field
Sunday, January 10, 2010. Beacon Practice - field (morning only)
Thursday, January 21, 2010. Snow Travel - lecture - 6:30PM @ MMC
Saturday, January 23, 2010. Snow Anchors, Belay and Rappel - field
Sunday, January 24, 2010. Glacier Travel - field
Thursday, February 4, 2010. High Angle Snow and Ice - lecture
Saturday, February 6, 2010. High Angle Snow Day 1 - field
Sunday, February 7, 2010. High Angle Snow Day 2 - field
Thursday, March 4, 2010. Crevasse Rescue - lecture
Saturday, March 6, 2010. Crevasse Rescue Day 1 - field
Sunday, March 7, 2010. Crevasse Rescue Day 2 - field
Saturday, March 13, 2010. Leadership and Acc. Man. (8:30AM-2:30PM@MMC)
Sunday, March 14, 2010. Leadership and Accident Management @ T-Line

March 15—-> April 26 - Assist with BCEP groups

Notice

Please note that information posted on this page is subject to change!

USDA Special Use Permit Information and Non-Discrimination Statement

Mazamas Education Programs operate under a special use permit with the Mt. Hood National Forest.
In accordance with Federal law and U.S. Department of Agriculture policy, the Mazamas is prohibited from discriminating on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.)

To file a complaint of discrimination, write: USDA, Director of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, D.C. 20250-9410 or call (202) 720-5964 (voice and TDD). The USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

Return To Top

Education & Classes