Intermediate Climbing School (ICS)

  Intermediate Climbing School Application Form  

  Final Payment Form

ICS Optional Sport Leading Class Payment Form

Info For Current Students And Assistants

Photos

Want to see some ICS action photos?  Check out the new ICS photo gallery under Resources.

Important Dates for ICS 2012-2013

All events and lectures take place at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 6:30PM, unless otherwise specified.

Wednesday, August 1, 2012, 7:00PM   ICS Application Form Opens (link at the top of this page)
Tuesday, August 7, 2012, 7:00PM   ICS information Night (at the MMC) 
Friday, August 17, 2012, 11:59PM   ICS Application Deadline
Monday, August 20, 2012, 7:00PM   ICS Skills Test (at the MMC)
Monday, August 27, 2012 Notification of Acceptance
Tuesday, September 4, 2012, 6:30PM First lecture and payment due

General Information

Intermediate Climbing School (ICS) is an intensive, challenging, fun, and rewarding experience. At no other point in your climbing career are you likely to see your climbing skills advance more dramatically within a single, relatively short span of time. You will learn a lot!  We pick up where BCEP left off and take you to the next level where you will learn the skills necessary to be a strong assistant on advanced Mazama climbs, organize private climbs of your own, and for those who choose, take the next step into Climb Leader Development.  You will also acquire the skills you’ll need to go out and gain the climbing experience necessary for entry into the advanced Mazama programs: Advance Rock (AR) & Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI).

The curriculum will include additional knots, additional belay and rappel techniques, glacier travel, rock and snow anchor building, map and compass navigation, avalanche danger assessment, avalanche transceiver training, accident management training, crevasse rescue, snow camping, high angle snow climbing, 5th class rock climbing, and seconding/cleaning 5th class Trad.

All students will learn the necessary skills to:

1. Join with any three other classmates, organize and execute a climb of any ‘A’ or ‘B’ level Mazamas climb
2. Serve as a competent assistant on a Mazamas ‘C’ level climb
3. Climb effectively on a Mazamas ‘D’ level climb
4. Develop working climbing relationships with your classmates and instructors
5. Provide a foundation for advanced mountaineering education and experience including Mazamas Leadership Development

ICS is a demanding commitment in terms of time and gear, so please apply only if you can make the necessary commitment. Please have a look at the class calendar to get an idea of the time required.

There will be approximately 40 available slots for the class, but only students who make a satisfactory showing during the application process will be considered, so there may be fewer than 40 students in the class.

The class is open to Mazama members at ($615) and non-members at ($695) which includes $148 for the cost of four nights lodging with dinner and breakfast at the Mazama lodge (if the upfront cost of the class is preventing you from taking it, please speak to the class coordinator). We are including the lodge costs in the class fees in order to be up front about all of the Mazamas costs of ICS and to simplify the registration procedure for each lodge stay. There is also an optional (not required) ICS Sport Leading module available for an additional $130 for members and $175 for non-members and is paid in early October. This optional module will teach you the skills required to begin leading 5th class Sport routes.

Web payment is strongly preferred and is due prior to the start of the first lecture.  Due to the competitive nature of the ICS application process, no refunds will be issued once payment for the class has been remitted.  The minimum age for students is 21. 

Full participation in every single lecture and field session is a requirement for graduation from ICS, as is the successful completion of a final snow and rock competency examination. Any missed sessions must be made up, either by participating in the same ICS session in the following year(s), or by substituting approved equivalent education (equivalency determined by the ICS Coordinator). On this point also note that, due to its abbreviated format, the Mazamas Crevasse Rescue Skill Builder is not a satisfactory equivalent to ICS Crevasse Rescue education. 

Finally, please note that because they provide you with the fundamental skills required to safely participate in the remainder of ICS, the first three field sessions and the first snow field session (and their attendant lectures) are required to continue on in the program. These sessions are: Field Session 1: Introduction to Rock Anchors (Broughton Bluff), Field Session 2: Anchors, Belaying, Rappelling (Horsethief State Park), Field Session 3: Anchors and Climbing Technique (Smith Rock State Park), and Field Session 7: Snow Anchors, Belaying, Rappelling (Timberline Lodge). To be clear, if you miss one of these sessions, you cannot advance any further in the course. Since there are no refunds, your only recourse is to retake the course during another year.

Factors which may help your admission are:

• Timely and complete submission of the required application materials
• Strong resume
• Ability to commit to ALL class sessions
• Strong recommendations from Mazama Climb Leaders
• All other things being equal in applications, preference will be given to applicants who are Mazama members.
• Finally, preference will be given to applicants who have completed MFA and one or more of the following Mazama skill builders: snow camping, rock anchor building & Wilderness Navigation. (See more under graduation requirements.)

Class correspondence will be conducted primarily via email.  Please address general class questions to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

Application forms are available online and must be completed online (see the link at the top of this page).

The primary text for this course is Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 7th Edition.  Other texts will be recommended throughout the class.

As much as possible, classroom sessions will include hands-on activities. Please wear comfortable clothing and shoes to lecture, including clothing with which a harness may be worn.

Each ICS student is responsible for providing his/her own climbing gear and equipment, except for ropes, pickets, avalanche transceivers, ice screws, and shovels.  Each field session prospectus includes a list of required equipment.

The leaders for the 2012-2013 ICS class are Steve Heikkila, ICS Coordinator and, Gary Ballou, ICS Assistant Coordinator.

Application Process

Because ICS is a popular class and requires certain skills and knowledge as a foundation, potential students must apply for admission to ICS.  The online application form is automatically forwarded to the class coordinators; all other materials should be emailed to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
 
The ICS Application is composed of the following four required parts:

1. Completed Application Form – Follow the link at the top of this page to fill out the application form.

2. Climb Resume –
Please use this climbing resume template as it prompts you for important information that is needed to be considered for ICS.  Once you’ve filled this out you can attach it to the online application (see the link at the top of the page).

Resumes must include:
Climbing history. Applicants should be able to list: at least two successful snow climbs, at least two successful rock climbs, where 5th class rock was protected.  Detail:

• Private, guided or club climb with the name of lead organization if any
• Date
• Peak and route
• One party member who can be contacted or in the case of Mazama climbs, the name of the leader
• Role you had in the climb: team member, rope lead, assist, lead

Outdoor and climbing related education, dates, organization, class
Volunteer service with the Mazamas

Please submit your climb resume to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

3. Climb Leader recommendations.  You can have a leader give recommendations to you or they may submit them directly to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address), if they prefer.

4. ICS Skills Test - August 20, 2012, 7:00 PM at the Mazama Mountaineering Center.  The ICS Skills Test will require that you perform the following skills correctly the first time:

• Setting up and executing a top-rope belay, with ground anchor and commands
• Rappel using two friction methods – ATC, Figure-8, munter hitch, carabiner-brake, etc.
• Knots – tie the following on the first demonstration: overhand, water knot, figure-8 on a bight, re-woven figure-8, butterfly knot, double fisherman’s, prusik hitch, clove hitch, girth hitch, münter hitch
• Pass through protection – putting on harness, roping up for glacier travel, passing through pro via running belay, passing through pro via vertical fixed line travel
• Belay a following climber using a standard belay method
• Quick belay—Belay a second using a carabiner ice ax belay and/or a boot ax belay

Please bring a climbing harness, carabiners, belay device and personal protection (a.k.a. safety leash) in order to execute all of the ICS skills test components.

Class Completion Requirements

To complete ICS and receive a graduation certificate, ICS students must:

• Attend each of the lectures and field sessions in the calendar below.
• Be current in CPR.
• Complete the Mazamas Mountaineering First Aid (MFA) class. This class is offered every October and February (there is a pause in the ICS schedule in October to facilitate MFA, so you should take it in October). You are encouraged to apply for MFA at the same time as you apply to ICS.  Those current in WFR and NOLS Advanced Wilderness First aid classes are not required to take MFA.
• Students who have completed the following Mazama Skill builders within the past year will not be required, but are encouraged, to attend the similar ICS modules: Snow Camping, Wilderness Navigation, and Rock Anchors.
• Assist with a BCEP group.
• Pass the rock and snow competency tests. Note: all lectures and field sessions must be completed prior to taking the final competency tests. In the event that you have to make up any missed session(s) with next year’s class, you will take the competency tests and graduate with next year’s class.

NOTE: In the event that a student fails the rock and snow competency tests, either in part or in whole, he or she will have one opportunity to retest along with the following year’s class. Since the point of the competency exams is to demonstrate competency in the full range of tested skills, retesting students are required to repeat the entire test set, and not simply the segments he or she failed the previous year.

Excepting emergencies or prior arrangements made with the lead coordinator, a student may be dropped from the class at the lead coordinator’s discretion if he or she fails to attend one or more lectures and/or field sessions.

Study Materials

Here are some recommended books for ICS.  Some are available at the Mazama Mountaineering Center for a discount:

• Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, (7th edition), published by The Mountaineers Books. This is a required text for the course.
• The Mountaineering Handbook, by Craig Connally
• The Illustrated Guide to Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel, by Tyson and Clelland
• Alpine Climbing:  Techniques to take you Higher by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley
• Climbing Anchors, Second Edition, by John Long and Bob Gaines

ICS Class Calendar (subject to minor revision)

All lectures are free and open to the public, whether or not you are enrolled in the class. Only paid participants will be allowed to participate in the field sessions. If you plan to audit the class please alert the class coordinators, do not take any handouts and go easy on questions.
 
Lectures are at the Mazama Mountaineering Center (Click here for a Map to the MMC) and start at 6:30 pm, unless otherwise specified.

For up to date scheduling information, please refer to the ICS Google calendar below.

**Tuesday, Sept 4, 2012.  Welcome & Ropes (MMC)
**Thursday, Sept 6, 2012.  Anchors Lecture (MMC)
**Saturday, Sept 8, 2012.  Intro. to Anchors (Broughton Bluff)
6PM Potluck, In town with Significant others and kids!

**Tuesday, Sept 11, 2012.  Belay & Rappel Lecture (MMC)
**Tuesday, Sept 18, 2012.  Skills Practical Session (MMC)
**Saturday, Sept 22, 2012.  Anchor, Belay, Rappel Field Session (HT)
Overnight car camping at Maryhill State Park Campground
**Sunday, Sept 23, 2012.  Anchor, Belay, Rappel Field Session (HT)

**Tuesday, Sept 25, 2012.  Rock climbing techniques, roles of a second, single & multipitch rope management (MMC)
**Saturday, Sept 29, 2012.  Anchors and Climbing Techniques (Smith) 
Overnight Car camping at Haystack Reservoir Campground
**Sunday, Sept 30, 2011.  Anchors and Climbing Techniques (Smith)

**Tuesday, Oct 2, 2012.  OPTIONAL MODULE: Intro to Sport Leading (MMC)
**Tuesday, Oct 9, 2012.  OPTIONAL MODULE ClubSport Gym Lead Session, choose Tue or Thu
**Thursday, Oct 11, 2012.  OPTIONAL MODULE ClubSport Gym Lead Session, choose Tue or Thu
**Saturday, Oct 13, 2012  OPTIONAL MODULE Sport Leading (Smith) 
Overnight Car camping at Haystack Reservoir Campground
**Sunday, Oct 14, 2012.  OPTIONAL MODULE Sport Leading (Smith)

**Tuesday, Oct 16, 2012.  Multi-pitch Alpine Rock Lecture (MMC)
**Saturday, Oct 20, 2012.  Multi-pitch Field Session (Smith)
Overnight Car camping at Haystack Reservoir Campground
**Sunday, Oct 21, 2012.  Multi-pitch Field Session (Smith)
**Saturday, Oct 27, 2012. Rainy Weather Make up Session (Smith)
Overnight Car camping at Haystack Reservoir Campground
**Saturday, Oct 28, 2012. Rain Weather Make up Session (Smith)

**Tuesday, Nov 13, 2012.  Navigation Lecture (MMC)
**Saturday, Nov 17, 2012.  Navigation Field Session (MMC & Hamilton Island)

**Tuesday, Dec 4, 2012. Snow Sessions Group Planning
**Saturday, Dec 8, 2012.  Avy Lecture (MMC)
**Sunday, Dec 9, 2012.  Avy Field Session (TL) maybe be rescheduled for bad weather!

**Tuesday, Jan 8, 2013 .  Snow Travel, Belay, and Rappel (MMC)
**Saturday, Jan 12, 2013.  Snow ABR Field Session (TL)
Overnight stay at Mazama Lodge, 6p Dinner at Mazama Lodge, 7pm – 8pm Lodge class One handed knots
**Sunday, Jan 13, 2013.  Glacier Travel Field Session (TL)
6:30 AM Breakfast at Mazama Lodge

**Tuesday,  Jan 15, 2013.  Crevasse Rescue Lecture (MMC)
**Saturday, Jan 19, 2013.  Crevasse Rescue Field I (TL)
Overnight stay at Mazama Lodge, 6pm Dinner at Mazama Lodge, 7pm Lodge class: advanced haul systems
**Sunday,  Jan 20, 2013.  Crevasse Rescue Field II (TL)
6:30AM Breakfast at Mazama Lodge

**Tuesday, Feb 5, 2013.  High Angle Snow Lecture (MMC)
**Saturday, Feb 9, 2013.  High Angle Snow Field (TL)
Overnight stay at Mazama Lodge, 6pm Dinner at Mazama Lodge, 7pm Lodge class tbd
**Sunday, Feb 10, 2013. High Angle Snow Field (TL)
6:30AM Breakfast at Mazama Lodge

**Tuesday, Feb 12, 2013.  Snow Camping Lecture (MMC)
**Saturday, Feb 16, 2013.  Snow Camping Field Session (camp out near TL)
**Sunday, Feb 17, 2013.  Snow Skill Review & Make Up Session (TL)

**Saturday, Mar 2, 2013.  Leadership & Accident Management Lecture (MMC)
**Sunday, Mar 3, 2013.  Accident Management Field (TL)
**Tuesday, Mar 5, 2013.  Accident Management Debrief, Overview of Competency tests, potluck (MMC)
**Thursday, Mar 7, 2013 Rock Skills Review Session (MMC)

**Saturday, Mar 9, 2013.  ICS Rock Competency Test (HT)
Overnight stay at Mazama Lodge, 7pm Dinner at Mazama Lodge
**Sunday, Mar 10, 2013.  ICS Snow Competency Test
6:30AM Breakfast at Mazama Lodge

**March 12 -April 23, 2013.  Assist with BCEP

**Saturday, April 27, 2013. Optional Bad Weather Make Up (HT?/TL?)
Overnight stay at Mazama Lodge, 7pm Dinner at Mazama Lodge
**Sunday, April 28, 2013.  Optional Bad Weather Make Up (HT?/TL?)
6:30AM Breakfast at Mazama Lodge

**Thursday, May 2, 2013.  ICS Graduation Party (MMC)

 Info For Current Students And Assistants

• ICS Class Calendar (See Below)
• ICS Student Photo Album
• ICS Lectures
• ICS Prospectuses

 Notice

Please note that information posted on this page is subject to change!