Advanced Rock / Beginning Trad Climbing
Course Goals and Changes for 2013
The mission for Mazamas Advanced Rock Course is:
“We Teach Trad.”
To provide high quality instruction in the development of technical and judgment skills that will enable graduates to be fully capable using traditional technique on single, multipitch, and alpine rock climbs.
Advanced Rock Focus Areas:
- Fundamental Skills:
o Placing protection, building anchors, belaying and rappelling.
- Leading Single Pitch Trad:
o Movement skills including crack climbing, lead protection and rope management
- Multipitch and Alpine Climbing:
o Introduction to Rock Rescue, Alpine gear, Route finding, and Aid Climbing.
- A series of 11 lectures given by knowledgeable speakers with hands on demos or exercises where appropriate
- 8 weekend field sessions coordinated by skilled, experienced climbers
- Opportunities to meet new and experienced rock climbers
- An invitation to 2-4 rock climbing outings (Spring thorugh Fall) - no climb card required
- A chance to learn about local climbing areas
- Involvement in a supportive group that will nurture learning new skills and challenging yourself through climbing
- FUN!! and lots of it
- Climbing Ability: The AR class is focused on teaching the use of traditional protection systems, gear and ropes. The course is not intended to teach rock climbing technique. All applicants should:
o Be able to top-rope a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall
o And have at least one of the following:
Successfully completed the Mazama ICS sport class,
Taken a beginning lead class at a local climbing gym,
Earned a lead card at a local climbing gym.
- Proficiency in basic skills of belaying, rappelling, knot tying, clipping pro, and rock climbing technique.
o Belaying: anchoring, climbing commands, belaying from below and above (top belay) and belaying with either hand
o Rappelling: convert a top rope anchor into a rappel
o Tying Knots: rewoven figure-8, butterfly knot, water knot, clove hitch, bowline, double fisherman’s knot, girth hitch, Munter hitch and prusik knot
o Climbing: top rope a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall
- Time commitment: The AR course requires a significant time commitment and the schedule is packed. We strongly discourage your taking another course simultaneously or attempting to assist with BCEP.
- Basic Gear: Have or obtain prior to class: harness, personal safety, rock shoes, helmet, multiple biners, prusiks, belay device. Purchasing a complete rack of gear before the course is discouraged because two discount gear-purchase nights for AR students have been arranged with the Mountain Shop. One will be early in the course (date TBD) for the more experienced climbers who know what gear they want. The second night is late in the course so students can gain experience with a variety of gear before purchasing – see date in the schedule below. All purchases are special order with a lead time of 1-2 weeks.
- Gear for Skills Test: Bring the following equipment to the skills test: harness, belay device and biner, 4 extra biners, 1 locking biner, 2 slings/runners, personal pro with locking biner, helmet, rock shoes, a smile and patience.
- Fitness: Rock climbing requires a blend of strength, stamina and flexibility unique to the sport. To get the most out of the class we recommend your being engaged in a regular practice in the following areas: climbing or bouldering, strength training (e.g. weights), aerobics and flexibility (e.g. yoga).
- Applicants must be 18 years old or older by the date of the first field session.
- Mazama membership and involvement is not required, but will be weighed in the selection process. All students will be encouraged to give back in future years by helping with: BCEP rock, Basic Rock Skills, ICS rock sessions, assisting a leader with a 5th-class rock pitch on a climb, and being an AR assistant.
- Submit a completed application form between Dec 3, 2012 and Jan 18, 2013. Applications are evaluated based on: climbing ability, experience level, basic skills proficiency, organizational involvement, willingness to commit fully to time for the course and team fit.
- Complete a skills test at MMC (if requested). Please bring gear cited above. Skills tests will take place on Tues, Jan 29 and Thurs, Jan 31 at the MMC. You will be notified via email after you submit your application if a skills test is required. Please note that not all applicants will be asked to take the skills test.
- Cost for the course is $340 for Mazama members and $425 for nonmembers. Payment is due after acceptance and prior to the first night of class.
- Class size is limited to around 24.
2013 Schedule (subject to change):
As with all Mazama classes, lectures are free and open whether or not you are enrolled in the class. However, the focus will be on paying participants including in-class exercises, hand-outs, etc.
Tues, Dec 11, 2012 AR Assistant Refresher/Skills Review - 6:30-8:30 PM at the MMC
Thurs, Jan 10, 2013 AR Assistant Refresher/Skills Review - 6:30-8:30 PM at the MMC
Tues, Feb 19, 2013 AR Assistant Refresher/Skills Review - 6:30-8:30 PM at the MMC
Mon, Dec 3, 2012 Applications available on line
Fri, Jan 18, 2013 Application deadline
Tues, Jan 29 Skills Test * - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Thurs, Jan 31 Skills Test * - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Tues, Feb 12 Acceptance emails sent
Thurs, Feb 28 Kick-off - Intro Night - 6:30 PM - Location to be announced
Sat, Mar 9 Lecture: Gear Placement - 9 AM at the MMC
Sat, Mar 9 Field Session: Gear Placement - 11 AM Broughton Bluff
Tues, Mar 12 Lecture: Belay and Rappel - 6-9 PM at the MMC
TBD Group Gear Purchase I - TBD - Mountain Shop
Tues, Mar 19 Lecture: Anchors I - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Sat, Mar 23 Field Session: Anchors - 9 AM Broughton Bluff
Tues, Mar 26 Lecture: Rock Rescue I - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Tues, Apr 2 Lecture: Anchors II - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Sat-Sun, Apr 6-7 Field Session: Gear, Anchors, Belay, Rappel and Competency Demo ** - 9 AM Sat 8 AM Sun Horsethief Butte, Camping Sat night
Tues, Apr 9 Lecture: Lead Climbing - 6-9 pm at the MMC
Thurs, Apr 11 Lecture: Rock Rescue II - 6-9 pm at the MMC
Sat, Apr 13 Field Session: Rock Rescue - 9 AM at the MMC
Sun, Apr 14 Field Session: Rock Rescue - 9 AM - Salmon River Slab
Tues, Apr 16 Lecture: Rock Warrior’s Way by Arno Ilgner - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Fri, Apr 19 Metolius Factory tour - 4 PM - Bend, OR
Sat-Sun, Apr 20-21 Field Session: Smith I Lead Climbing, 1/2 day sessions w/ Arno Ilgner, - 9 AM Sat/ 8 AM Sun at Smith Rock, camp at Haystack Reservoir
Tues, Apr 23 Lecture: Alpine Climbing and Crack Climbing - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Sat-Sun, Apr 27-28 Field Session: Smith II Lead Climbing - 9 AM Sat / 8 AM Sun Smith Rock, camp at Haystack Reservoir
Tues, Apr 30 Lecture: Aid-climbing lecture/demo/ Group Gear Purchase II - 6-9 PM at the MMC / Mountain Shop
Sat-Sun, May 4-5 Field Session: Vantage Weekend OPTIONAL - 9 AM Sat / 8 AM Sun - Vantage Camping Sat night
Tues, May 14 Lecture: Student Led Topics - 6-9 PM at the MMC
Sat-Sun, May 18-19 Field Session: Smith III Lead Climbing - 9 AM Sat / 8 AM Sun Smith Rock, camp at Haystack Reservoir
Thurs, May 23 Course Party/Rope turn-in!! All welcome - 6:30 PM non-MMC location to be announced
June 8-16 Trip: Yosemite week - Yosemite Valley, CA
Fall TBD Trip: Red Rocks (to be confirmed) - Red Rocks, NV
* Not all applicants will be asked to take the skills test.
** Required before attending remaining field sessions. The competency demo will include demonstrating the sequence of lead climbing, building anchors, belaying a second and lead belaying.
This course does not follow a specific text. It relies instead on an accumulated body of material developed by the Mazamas. All materials from the lectures will be available for download after the lecture. The following books are suggested for augmenting the materials presented in this course.
- A. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 8th Edition, published by The Mountaineers Books. (The 8th Edition is available now at the MMC)
- B. Advanced Rock Climbing by John Long and Craig Luebben, Falcon Books, 1997 (available at the MMC)
- Traditional Lead Climbing by Heidi Pesterfield, Wilderness Press, 2007. This is a required text for the course (available at a discount to all Mazama students at the Mazama Mountaineering Center
- The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers by Arno Ilgner, Desiderata Institute, 2006
- Espresso Lessons by Arno Ilgner, Desiderata Institute. This is the “how to” application of The Rock Warrior’s Way, intended to build upon and complement it.
- Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide by Craig Luebben, The Mountaineers Books, 2006
- Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition by John Long and Bob Gaines, Falcon Books, 2006 HIGHLY Recommended
- Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations by Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis, The Mountaineers Books, 2006 HIGHLY Recommended
Jeff Hawkins, Lead
George Cummings, Administration and Student Manual
Terry Campbell and Ray Belt: Course Content
Ryan McGibbon and Kat Buckspan, Coordination of Assistants
Spencer Leek, Coordination of Students
John Meckel and Laura Pigion, Field Sessions and Outings
More questions . . .
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