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Education & Classes |
Advanced RockCourse Goals and changes for 2010The mission for AR is: “Developing technical and judgement skills to enable graduates to be fully capable lead climbers on traditional, multipitch and alpine rock.” For 2010, we will have a required text which will be available for purchase at the MMC before the course begins: Traditional Lead Climbing by Heidi Pesterfield (2nd Edition 2007 Wilderness Press). This text will act as a workbook to accompany the course in three broad stages: Fundamental Skills: Placing protection, building anchors, belaying and rappelling. This stage culminates in a skills review and then competency test at Horsethief Butte. Leading Single Pitch Trad: Movement skills including crack climbing, sport leading including taking and holding falls at the gym, lead protection and rope management. This stage culminates in a weekend at Tieton River gorge with opportunities to mock lead and regular lead cracks. Multipitch and Alpine Climbing: Introduction to Self Rescue and Aid Climbing, Alpine gear, Descents, Topos. This stage includes two trips to Smith Rock and leads into optional summer trips including City of Rocks, Yosemite, Washington Pass and Squamish.
Important Dates for Advanced Rock 2010
General InformationThe Mazamas Advanced Rock Climbing program began and continues with a single major purpose: to teach students how to lead 5th class rock, using the traditional form of climbing - placing protection. In the Basic Climbing Education Program, the emphasis is on basic climbing skills and creating competent party members. In the Intermediate Climbing School, skills are enhanced to enable participants to assist the leader on a climb, and for some this becomes a path towards Leadership Development. The goal of the Advanced Rock program is to provide both the skills and the practical experience to lead technical rock, enabling participants a fuller range of options whether on a private or Mazamas climb, in a cragging or alpine environment. More than a series of lectures and field sessions, the Advanced Rock course is about people. The benefit to be gained is not limited to the development of safe climbing and communications skills. It is also the opportunity to establish long term climbing connections and friendships with people who share similar goals and interests. The program consists of lectures and coordinated field sessions, many of which take place at Tieton River in Southern Washington or Smith Rock in Central Oregon. In 2010, we will have trips to areas such as The City of Rocks, Idaho for sport and trad climbing practice, the Washington Pass area for an alpine weekend, alpine climbing in Tuolomne Meadows, Yosemite, and multipitch climbing at Squamish outside of Vancouver, BC. Students will also be encouraged to plan and complete an alpine rock climb of their choice, as well as to apply for summer alpine rock climbs at the “D” and “E” level, offered as part of the regular Mazama Summer climb schedule. The class lectures and field sessions begin in March and run through mid-June. . This class demands a substantial time commitment if you wish to get the most out of the course. Please check the schedule at the bottom of this page to get an idea of the class material and time required. The Advanced Rock course is not for everyone. In terms of numbers each year, there are over 200 people in the Basic Climbing Education Program, about 40 to 50 in Intermediate Climbing School, and 20 or fewer in the Advanced Rock and the Advanced Snow and Ice courses. However, Advanced Rock is not necessarily a continuation of our other schools. There are many fine climbers and Mazamas leaders who have not been through the Advanced Rock course. Our emphasis is on how to lead safely, rather than on improvement of athletic climbing ability. There will be students in the program tackling difficult multi-pitch leads while others are making gains on lower rated single pitch routes. Students should have climbing experience at an equivalent of Mazamas Intermediate Climbing School (ICS), but another important admission requirement is self-confidence and the desire to face the increasing challenges that technical leading involves. The Mazamas encourage climb leaders and those in the Leadership Development program to take this and other advanced classes to enhance their leadership skills. The 2010 class will be headed by Eugene Lewins with a leadership team consisting of Lisa Ripps, Pat Cook, Rayce Boucher, Rhonda Ramirez and Thomas Miller. Please contact by emailing (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) We will be using a Yahoo Group site http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Mazama_AR/ for sharing ‘informally’ during the class, such as carpooling, asking for input from coordinators, putting out agendas for field sessions, photos etc. PhotosWant to see some Advanced Rock action photos? Check out the Advanced Rock photo gallery under Resources. Course requirementsIf you want to apply for the Advanced Rock class, keep the following in mind:
For the course fee you receive:
Entrance Skills TestAfter your application has been reviewed, selected applicants will be asked to complete a basic climbing competency test at Club Sport. (Please Note: Current Mazamas Climb Leaders WILL be asked to take the skills test. Mazamas in the Climb Leader Development Program, including Provisional Leaders, are also required to take the skills test.) Please bring the following gear to the skills test: harness, belay biner, belay device, 4 extra biners, 1 locking biner, 2 slings/runners, personal pro with locking biner, 1 piece tubular webbing, 5 to 7 mm nylon cord. No rock pro (cams, stoppers, etc.) are needed. The test will take place at Club Sport Rock Gym in Tualatin. You’ll be tested on these skills:
Registration
Cost for the course is $310 for Mazama members and $390 for non-members. A $100 refundable rope deposit is also required. We will request payment after you are accepted. Payment will be due on the first night of class. If you have questions, contact us at (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). For the class application, click on the link at the top or side of this page. NOTE: As is the case with all Mazamas classes, all lectures are free and open to anyone who wants to attend, whether or not you are enrolled in the class. Only paid participants will be allowed to participate in the field sessions. If you do drop in on a lecture, please do not take any handouts and refrain from questions. Auditing this course, or parts of it, can be a great way to increase your knowledge of rock climbing if you are unable to commit to the entire class. Heading to Smith Rock? Check out the Smith Rock Gear Checklist 2010 Advanced Rock Schedule (subject to change)
*Attendance required. The following Field Sessions are optional but highly recommended. All AR grads are invited to come and climb!
A few recommended books . . .
See the Mazamas Links page for our rock climbing links, and the Tip of the Week pages for lots of rock climbing tips. More questions . . .If you have any other class related questions, please feel free to contact the main office. |
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