Advanced Rock / Beginning Trad Climbing
AR Beginning Trad Application Will be available Dec. 2, 2013!
Course Overview for 2014
The mission for the Mazama Advanced Rock Course :“We Teach Trad”
The Mazama Advanced Rock Course provides high quality instruction and training to enable graduates to be proficient at leading traditional climbs. We teach the technical and mental skills that will prepare you for a wide range of climbing, from single-pitch cragging to multi-pitch and alpine rock routes.
- Gear Placement
- Anchor Building
- Lead Climbing
- Rock Rescue
- Mental and Physical Preparation
- Planning and Execution
- A series of 11 lectures, given by knowledgeable speakers with hands on demos or exercises where appropriate.
- 9 weekend field sessions, coordinated and taught by skilled, experienced climbers.
- An invitation to 2-4 rock climbing outings (spring through fall - no climb card required).
- Opportunities to meet new and experienced rock climbers.
- A chance to learn about climbing areas and destinations.
- Involvement in a supportive group that will enable the learning of new skills, growth and challenge through climbing.
- FUN!! and lots of it
Climbing Ability: The AR class is focused on teaching the use of traditional protection systems, gear and ropes. The course is not intended to teach rock climbing technique. All applicants should:
- Be able to top-rope a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall
- Have at least one of the following:
- Successfully completed the Mazama ICS sport class.
- Taken a beginning lead class at a local climbing gym.
- Earned a lead card at a local climbing gym.
Proficiency in basic skills of belaying, rappelling, knot tying, clipping pro, and rock climbing technique.
- Belaying: anchoring, climbing commands, belaying from below and above (top belay) and belaying with either hand
- Rappelling: convert a top rope anchor into a rappel
- Tying Knots: rewoven figure-8, butterfly knot, water knot, clove hitch, bowline, double fisherman’s knot, girth hitch, Munter hitch and prusik knot
- Climbing: top rope a climb rated 5.8 or higher without a take or fall
Time commitment: The AR course requires a significant time commitment and the schedule is packed. We strongly discourage your taking another course simultaneously or attempting to assist with BCEP.
- Basic Gear: Have or obtain prior to class: harness, personal safety, rock shoes, helmet, multiple biners, prusiks, belay device. Purchasing a complete rack of gear before the course is discouraged because two discount gear-purchase nights for AR students have been arranged with the Mountain Shop. One will be early in the course (date TBD) for the more experienced climbers who know what gear they want. The second night is late in the course so students can gain experience with a variety of gear before purchasing – see date in the schedule below. All purchases are special order with a lead time of 1-2 weeks.
- Gear for Skills Test: Bring the following equipment to the skills test: harness, belay device and biner, 4 extra biners, 1 locking biner, 2 slings/runners, personal pro with locking biner, helmet, rock shoes, a smile and patience.
- Fitness: Rock climbing requires a blend of strength, stamina and flexibility unique to the sport. To get the most out of the class we recommend your being engaged in a regular practice in the following areas: climbing or bouldering, strength training (e.g. weights), aerobics and flexibility (e.g. yoga).
- Applicants must be 18 years old or older by the date of the first field session.
- Mazama membership and involvement is not required, but will be weighed in the selection process. All students will be encouraged to give back in future years by helping with: BCEP rock, Basic Rock Skills, ICS rock sessions, assisting a leader with a 5th-class rock pitch on a climb, and being an AR assistant.
- Submit a completed application form between December 2, 2013 and January 21, 2014. Applications are evaluated based on: climbing ability, experience level, basic skills proficiency, organizational involvement, willingness to commit fully to time for the course and team fit.
- Complete a skills test at MMC (if requested). Please bring gear cited above. Skills tests will take place on Tuesday, January 28 and Thursday, January 30 at the MMC. You will be notified via email after you submit your application if a skills test is required. Please note that not all applicants will be asked to take the skills test.
- Cost for the course is $375 for Mazama members and $475 for nonmembers. Payment is due after acceptance and prior to the first night of class.
- Class size is limited to around 24.
2014 Schedule (subject to change):
As with all Mazama classes, lectures are free and open whether or not you are enrolled in the class. However, the focus will be on paying participants including in-class exercises, hand-outs, etc.
- Mon, Dec 2, 2013 Applications available online
- Thurs, Jan 9, 2014 AR Assistant Update Session - 6-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Tues, Jan 21, 2014 Application deadline
- Tues, Jan 28 Skills Test * - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Thurs, Jan 30 Skills Test * - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Thurs, Feb 27 AR Assistant Update Session- 6-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Tues, Feb 11 Acceptance emails sent
- Thurs, Mar 4 Kick-off & Intro Night - 6:30 p.m.- Location to be announced
- Sat, Mar 8 Lecture: Gear Placement - 9 - 10:30 a.m.at the MMC
- Sat, Mar 8 Field Session: Gear Placement - 11 a.m. at Broughton Bluff
- Tues, Mar 11 Lecture: Belay and Rappel - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- TBD Group Gear Purchase- Mountain Shop
- Tues, Mar 18 Lecture: Anchors I - 6:30-9 p.m.at the MMC
- Sat, Mar 22 Field Session: Anchors I - 9 a.m. at Broughton Bluff
- Tues, Mar 25 Lecture: Lead Climbing - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Thurs, Mar 27 AR Assistant - High Angle Rescue Update and Review - 6:30-8:30 p.m. at the MMC
- Sat, Mar 29 (OPTIONAL) Field Session: Knots, Gear and Anchors Practice - 10 a.m. at Rocky Butte
- Sun, Mar 30 (OPTIONAL) Field Session: Knots, Gear and Anchors Practice - 10 a.m. at Rocky Butte
- Tues, Apr 1 Lecture: High-Angle Rescue I - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Sat-Sun, Apr 5-6 Field Session: Gear, Anchors, Belay, Rappel and Competency Demo ** - 9 a.m. Sat 8 / 8 a.m Sun at Horsethief Butte, Camping Sat night TBD
- Tues, Apr 8 Lecture: Anchors II - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Thurs, Apr 10 Lecture: High-Angle Rescue II - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Sat, Apr 12 Field Session: High-Angle Rescue - 9 a.m. at the MMC
- Sun, Apr 13 Field Session: High-Angle Rescue - 9 a.m. at the MCM
- Tues, Apr 15 Lecture: Intro to Aid Climbing - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Sat, Apr 19 (TBD) Rain Makeup Day Field Session
- Tues, Apr 22 Lecture: Technique and Training - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Sat-Sun, Apr 26-27 Field Session: Smith I Lead Climbing - 9 a.m. Sat / 8 a.m. Sun at Smith Rock; camp at Haystack Reservoir
- Tues, Apr 29 Lecture: Alpine Climbing - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- TBD Group Gear Purchase II - 6:30-9 p.m. at the Mountain Shop
- Sat-Sun, May 3-4 Field Session: Smith II Lead Climbing - 9 a.m. Sat / 8 a.m. Sun at Smith Rock; camp at Haystack Reservoir
- Tues, May 13 The Rock Warrior’s Way by Arno Ilgner - 6:30-9 p.m. at the MMC
- Fri-Sun, May 16-18 Field Session: Smith III Lead Climbing / All-day session with Arno Ilgner - 9 a.m. Fri / 9 a.m. Sat / 8 a.m. Sun at Smith Rock; camp at Haystack Reservoir
- Thurs, May 22 Course Party/Rope turn-in; Student-led Topics (all welcome!) - 6:30 p.m., Location TBD
- Sat-Sun, May 24-26 (OPTIONAL) Field Session: Tieton/Vantage Weekend
- TBD (OPTIONAL) Spring Trip: City of Rocks - City of Rocks, ID
- TBD (OPTIONAL) Fall Trip: Red Rocks - Red Rocks, NV
* Not all applicants will be asked to take the skills test.
** Required before attending remaining field sessions. The competency demo will include demonstrating the sequence of lead climbing, building anchors, belaying a second and lead belaying.
This course does not follow a specific text. It relies instead on an accumulated body of material developed by the Mazamas. All materials from the lectures will be available for download after the lecture. The following books are suggested for augmenting the materials presented in this course.
- Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition by John Long and Bob Gaines, Falcon Books, 2006 HIGHLY Recommended
- Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations by Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis, The Mountaineers Books, 2006 HIGHLY Recommended
- B. Advanced Rock Climbing by John Long and Craig Luebben, Falcon Books, 1997 (available at the MMC)
- A. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 8th Edition, published by The Mountaineers Books. (The 8th Edition is available now at the MMC)
- Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide by Craig Luebben, The Mountaineers Books, 2006
- Traditional Lead Climbing by Heidi Pesterfield, Wilderness Press, 2007. This is a required text for the course (available at a discount to all Mazama students at the Mazama Mountaineering Center
- The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers by Arno Ilgner, Desiderata Institute, 2006
- Espresso Lessons by Arno Ilgner, Desiderata Institute. This is the “how to” application of The Rock Warrior’s Way, intended to build upon and complement it.
Ray Belt: Lead Coordinator
Nate Mullen: Assistant Coordinator
Spencer Leek: Student Coordinator
Hye Kwon: Assistant Student Coordinator
Rebecca Schob: Lecture Coordinator
Kat Buckspan: Field Instructor and Assistants Coordinator
Chris Simmons: Field Instructor and Assistants Coordinator
Stephanie Spence: Field Session and Trip Coordinator
Terry Campbell: Member at Large
More questions . . .
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