Advanced Snow and Ice (ASI)

Photos

Want to see some ASI action photos? Check out the new ASI photo gallery under Resources. See photos of ASI guest instructor Yvon Chouinard

The ASI Application process has closed.

General Information

The Mazama ASI program is for climbers to develop advanced skills in high angle snow and ice travel. Learn the why and how of such things as crampon techniques, advanced crevasse rescue, high angle rescue, anchors, and climbing ice on alpine terrain and vertical walls.

This course is intended for climbers who wish to commit to a series of lectures and field sessions with the goal of learning the skills and confidence to climb and lead at the Mazama “D” and “E” level. There will be a maximum of 12 to 15 students in this class.

The 2009 course will be coordinated by Adam Nawrot. Questions can be addressed to (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

Registration Information
ASI is designed for climbers coming in with these characteristics:

Mazama Intermediate Climbing School or equivalent education or experience
A working understanding of simple Z-system crevasse rescue
Climbing resume which demonstrates a breadth of climbing on both snow and rock, with a least two climbs being Mazamas “C” level climbs involving moderate-angle snow climbing (30-40°)
Demonstrate a commitment to the Mazamas
Ability and desire to commit to the course schedule
Age: 18 years or older at time of first lecture

The ASI class tuition is $250 for the entire class, or $150 for either the spring Advanced Snow series or the fall Basic Ice Climbing series. Payment is due at the first lecture. (Non-members $300/$175.)

Apply online or through the Mazama Mountaineering Center. One application per participant, please.

What you’ll learn . . . A sampler of concepts and skills that may be presented in ASI

Advanced Snow
Climbing on Snow

Reading slopes and planning routes
Crampon, types and techniques
Axes/tools, types and techniques
Placing and building anchors

Rescue Systems

Escaping from the belay
Advanced crevasse rescue skills
High angle rescue

Anchors and Rope Handling

Anchors and protection: why and when
Gear: pickets, flukes, bollards, ice screws
Belays

Glacier Travel

Equipment & protection
Route finding
Movement & rope management

Introductory Ice Climbing

Equipment & clothing
Climbing technique, crampons and tools
Anchors & anchor placement
Movement on alpine terrain
Vertical ice technique

For both sessions, ropes, pickets, and a limited number of ice screws and ice tools will be provided for the class. Beyond these items, students should have their own gear and clothing appropriate to spring and fall snow climbing.

Schedule
This course is divided into two parts - a spring session in crevasse rescue and high angle snow travel, and a fall session in beginning ice climbing. You can take the entire class, or just one session, either the spring snow session or the fall ice climbing class.

2009 Advanced Snow and Ice Schedule

The Fine print: This schedule and its activities and topics are subject to change to accommodate field conditions and participant experience.

Spring Session – Advanced Snow Climbing
All lectures start at 7p.m. at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland OR 97215

For all spring session field sessions, plan on staying Saturday nights at Mazama Lodge. If conditions warrant, we will try to conduct ‘learning climbs’ on steep routes on Mt Hood on any of the weekends.

Lecture - Wednesday April 29, 2009
Orientation and class overview. Discuss equipment and clothing, mountain weather, route planning and awareness, conditioning.

Lecture - Wednesday May 6, 2009
Trip planning exercise and climb preparation by students.
Climbing skills: anchors, crampon and axe techniques

Field - Sat-Sun May 9-10, 2009
Climbing: movement, crampon and ax techniques, anchors and protection, belays and roped team climbing
On-route planning: reading terrain, awareness of conditions, avalanche awareness

Lecture - Wednesday May 13, 2009
High angle rescue/evacuation skills, risk discussion, hazard recognition. Guest lecturers from Portland Mountain Rescue may be on hand to share experience. Review of actual accidents from Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Advanced crevasse rescue.

Field - Sat-Sun May 16-17, 2009
High angle rescue/evacuation skills: with the generous assistance of Portland Mountain Rescue we’ll learn how to deal with accidents on steep terrain. During this activity we will also be working on anchors and climbing skills.
Crevasse Rescue: hammer on the basics, advanced systems, 2-person teams.

Lecture - Wednesday May 27, 2009
Trip planning exercise and climb preparation by students.
Presentation: Steep routes of interest

Field - Sat-Sun May 30-31, 2009
Climbing: practice technique on steeper terrain, managing teams, master anchors
Repeat rescue or other skills as needed or that we missed in the previous field sessions.

BACKUP Field session - Sat-Sun June 6-7, 2009
This weekend is reserved as a backup field session if we lose too much field teaching time due to weather and other conditions. If sufficient material has been covered students may consider taking this opportunity to plan an alpine climb for the class.

Fall Session - Basic Ice Climbing

All lectures start at 7:00 pm at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland OR 97215

Lecture - Wednesday Sept 9, 2009
Introductory Ice. Topics: equipment, clothing, anchors, characteristics of ice, and climbing technique.

Field - Sat-Sun Sept 12-13, 2009
Crampon techniques, ice axe techniques, basic ice climbing skills, and practice climbing. White River or Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood. Overnight camping at the White River or Cloud Cap Saddle campground.

Lecture - Wednesday Sept 16, 2009
Alpine ice: lead climbing and multi-pitch techniques, light and fast concepts.

Field - Sat-Sun Sept 19-20, 2009
Anchors, belay setups, hanging belays, placing protection and simulated leading. Elliott Glacier, Mt. Hood. Overnight camping at the Cloud Cap Saddle campground.

Lecture - Wednesday Sept 23, 2009
Advanced techniques, planning ice climbing trips.

Field - Fri-Sun Sept 25-27, 2009
Practicing all of the above skills and those who are ready will be allowed to lead. This is a 3 day weekend and is planned to take place on the Adams Glacier on Mt Adams.

BACKUP Field session - Sat-Sun October 3-4, 2009
This weekend is reserved as a backup field session if we lose too much field teaching time due to weather and other conditions.

USDA Special Use Permit Information and Non-Discrimination Statement

Mazamas Education Programs operate under a special use permit with the Mt. Hood National Forest.

In accordance with Federal law and U.S. Department of Agriculture policy, the Mazamas is prohibited from discriminating on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.)

To file a complaint of discrimination, write: USDA, Director of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 1400 Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, D.C. 20250-9410 or call (202) 720-5964 (voice and TDD). The USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.

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