Expedition Training Course

Note: This class is offered every other year (2010, 2012, 2014, etc.)

Important Dates for the 2010 Expedition Training Course

Tuesday, January 11, 2010 - Application Deadline

Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - First Meeting/Potluck

Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - First Lecture

2010 Mazamas Expedition Training Course Application

General Informaion

Have you ever dreamed of organizing your own climbing expedition to the accessible Mexican volcanoes, Alaska’s mighty Denali, exotic Ecuador or breathtaking Peru? Maybe you’ve climbed throughout the Pacific Northwest and now want to expand your climbing horizon to a foreign country and a high peak. Or how about a multi-day winter climb to a remote part of the North Cascades? Interested in learning tips and techniques of expedition life? Then join us for the Mazamas Expedition Training Course!

The course is for climbers who have never been on an expedition and for advanced climbers who have been on expeditions, but want to expand their knowledge and learn tips on what has worked well for different people and different perspectives. The course combines lectures, discussions, slide shows and field sessions. The classroom sessions are held at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center and will offer knowledge and advice on planning and organizing expeditions. They combine a lecture and discussion format and feature experienced expedition leaders. Each lecture is followed by a slide show of a recent Mazama expedition.

Climbers with expedition experience lead the field sessions. These weekend sessions provide hands-on training of expedition skills.

Skills, techniques and information you will learn from taking the Expedition Training Course are:

• Organizing a climbing expedition from A to Z. From choosing a mountain and putting together a team to detailed planning and adaptation in the field
• Selecting expedition food, preparing expedition meals, and overall nutrition
• Camping techniques for expeditions, building a snow cave, igloo, and use of Megamid tents
• First aid associated with expedition needs and altitude
• Rigging sleds
• Selecting gear and clothing
• Using avalanche beacons
• Analyzing snow packs and avalanche hazards
• Traveling in foreign countries (dos and don’ts)
• Selecting mountain guides, transport, etc.
• Accident management and evacuation training
• Physical training for an expedition
• Glacier travel techniques for expeditions

In addition to the Expedition Training Course, the Mazamas offer clinics in crevasse rescue, avalanche assessment, and other skills related to expedition travel through our Skill Builder classes.

Cost The cost of the course will be $195/$295 members/non-members. Course size is limited to 12 students so apply early! The application deadline is January 11, 2010. Payment is due in full at the night of the first lecture.

Requirements Students should have a sold background in alpine climbing and glacier/snow travel. This is not a climbing class. Students need to be in good physical condition. All applicants for the course must have completed the Mazamas Intermediate Climbing School (or the equivalent) and be 18 years or older.

If you have any questions or care to discuss the class, please contact Terry Donahe at (JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) or 503‐804‐5401.

Lectures and Slide Shows

Each class night consists of a one-hour lecture followed by a one-hour slide show focused on the planning and execution of a popular expedition peak or area. The lectures are held at Mazamas Mountaineering Center at 7:00 pm.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - Intro Night - Course Overview and expectations -Hosted at a committee member’s house, this is a chance to get to know one another, set expectations of the mini-expedition, determine expedition style, begin group planning, appoint expedition leader, discuss meals, etc.

Saturday, TBD - Avalanche Lecture and Beacon Practice 8:30am - 4:30pm This is an all day, combined lecture with Ski Mountaineering. The morning lecture will cover avalanche awareness, avoidance, rescue and beacon use. It will be followed by an afternoon beacon lecture and practice session in Gabriel Park. Bring a sack lunch.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - Lecture 1

Tuesday, February 2, 2010 - Lecture 2

Tuesday, February 9, 2010 - Lecture 3

Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - Lecture 4

Tuesday, March 2, 2010 - Lecture 5

Tuesday, March 9, 2010 - Lecture 6

Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - Makeup Lecture if needed

Field Sessions

Sunday, TBD - Avalanche field session (Mount Hood) Traveling in potential avalanche terrain, techniques for evaluating snow pack, safe route finding, beacon practice in the snow, and mock rescue practices. Avalanche beacons and shovels provided.

Saturday-Sunday, February 20-21, 2010 - Traveling, Camping I, Emergency Shelters (Mount Hood) - rigging and traveling with sleds - campsite selection, establishing a camp, building walls, building a latrine and kitchen tent (Megamid) - caching gear - expedition cooking - snow caves, igloos, trenches and emergency shelters

Saturday-Sunday, March 6-7, 2010 - Camping II, Crevasse Rescue (Mount Hood) - avoiding avalanche and crevasse dangers - crevasse rescue and gear (with and without sleds) - using ascenders and fixed lines

Lecture Topics:

- Camping techniques including snow caves, snow walls and Megamid use - Sled rigging (bring sled and rigging to class) - Cold weather gear - Local Transportation, Outfitter and Guide services - Food & nutrition - Sponsors & fund-raising - Expedition legal issues - Pre-trip planning - Mountain Logistics - Trip specific planning - Traveling in foreign countries - Expedition First Aid - Inoculation - High altitude climbing - Fitness & training - Group Dynamics - Traveling in and planning for inaccessible areas

Possible Slideshows:

Denali Slide Show

Cordillera Blanca, Peru (Tocllaraju, Artesonraju and Huascaran Sur) Slide Show

Ama Dablam Slide Show

Shisha Pangma Slide Show

Aconcagua Slide Show