Climbing Mt. Hood FAQ

Standing on the summit of Mt. Hood, the highest point in Oregon at 11,239 feet, is a lifelong dream for many aspiring mountaineers.  The Mazamas have been climbing Mt. Hood regularly for more than a century.  We have the know-how to get you started in your summit attempt, whether it’s with us or someone else.  Here are a few answers to some of the most common questions we hear about this peak.

I don’t have any experience in snow climbing, but I’m in good shape and I really want to try Mount Hood.  What’s the best approach for me?

For those who really want to stand on the summit, but at this point are not sure if they want to continue with mountaineering, we suggest going with either a guiding company or finding a trusted friend who knows how to climb.  (Buying the trusted friend a really nice dinner can help the negotiations along!) Here’s a list of guiding companies that are permitted to guide on Mt. Hood.

It says in your web site that you take nonmembers on your climbs.  Even though I’ve never climbed before, can I still go with you?

While non-Mazama members are welcome to apply for our climbs, it’s important to know that we are not a guiding service.  A professional guiding company will typically supply much of the equipment that you need, give you basic instruction the day before the climb in the minimal technical skills required, and usually give you a snow-cat ride halfway up the mountain to improve your chances of summitting.  Essentially a guiding company will take anyone, regardless of their experience level.  On a Mazamas climb, we require that each climb applicant have the skills, equipment and fitness needed for what ever route they want to try.  While this may be fairly minimal for one of the easier routes we lead such as South Sister or Mt. St. Helens, we still ask that climb applicants have all the needed skills before they apply for a climb with us.

Do I have to take your BCEP class to go on a Mazama climb?

No.  All our climbs are open to members and non-members who have the skills needed for the climb they apply for.  You can learn these skills from us, from another school or program, or from your friends, we don’t care!  Unlike some other mountaineering organizations, we recognize that there are wide range of acceptable ways and places in which to learn the needed skills for technical climbing.  When you apply for the climb, you tell the leader of the peaks you’ve climbed (if any) and any courses you have taken.

What’s the best time of year to climb Mt. Hood?

The main climbing season for Mt. Hood is April, May and June.  The vast majority of summit attempts are made during this time.  A combination of fairly stable weather, usually lower avalanche danger, and minimal rock fall typically make these months the best.  August through November are not usually a good time to climb, because of increased danger of rock fall on the upper slopes of the mountain.  Weekends during the spring are often very busy.  If you can make time to go on a weekday, you will enjoy greater solitude on the mountain.

What technical skills do I need to know?

Fitness is the main requirement - see below for specifics.  Having some experience wearing crampons, proper use of the ice axe for ascending, descending, self-belay and self arrest, and moving as part of a roped team will likely all be required skills for a Hood climb. These are all covered in the Mazamas BCEP class, as well as by guiding companies prior to your climb.

What kind of equipment do I need?

If you are already active in the outdoors, the synthetic layered clothing and backpack you may already own should be fine for your climb.  As far as specialized gear, most people rent crampons, an ice ax, and plastic mountaineering boots from one of the local Portland area climbing shops.  Depending on route conditions, a climbing harness can also be a good idea.  If you go with a guiding company, they can provide much of this equipment for you.

How long does the climb take?

A rough rule of thumb in mountaineering is that a fit climber can ascend approximately 1000 feet per hour.  As Mt. Hood is a 5,000 foot climb, fit climbers usually take between five and seven hours to reach the summit for the first time.  Typically 3 hours are taken for the descent, for a total time of roughly 8-10 hours round-trip.  This time will probably be less with a guiding company, because many of them take a snow-cat ride to the top of the Palmer chairlift and start the climb from halfway up the mountain.  Most non-guided climbers begin to climb at Timberline Lodge elevation 6000 feet.  If you’re on a large team with lots of other beginning climbers, count on an extra couple of hours.

I work out fairly regularly and consider myself fit, but I’m not sure if I’m in good enough shape.  Do you have any guidelines?

Hiking regularly on trails with a decent vertical elevation gain while carrying a backpack loaded with approximately 20 to 25 pounds is a great way to train for mountaineering.  As a rule of thumb, if you can complete a Columbia Gorge hike such as Dog Mountain or Table Mountain (each with an approximate 3000 foot elevation gain) while carrying a 25 pound pack, (and not be completely trashed when you’re done!) you’re probably fit enough for successful Mt. Hood climb.  We feel success on the standard South side route on Mt. Hood is due to about 90% fitness and about 10% technical skill.

How many routes are there on Mt. Hood?  Which one should I try?

For beginning climbers trying Mt. Hood for the first time, we strongly recommend the standard south side climbing route.  One of the main advantages of this route is that it follows a ski chairlift for approximately half of the climb.  If you have to descend in low visibility, following this chairlift can be very useful!  There are at least 15 major routes on Mt. Hood, and every other route requires a greater level of technical climbing skill than does the standard south side.

Where can I get more detailed information about the climb?

A good place to start is the Mazamas links page on this web site.  Here you’ll find links to the US Forest Service current conditions page, web cams of Mt Hood, and links to detailed weather forecasts and avalanche conditions.  You can also look at web sites such as http://www.cascadeclimbers.com and http://www.summitpost.com for photographs and recent route conditions and reports.

You boneheads didn’t answer the question that I have.  What should I do now?

Feel free to contact us at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, 503-227-2345, or send us an email with your question.  We’ll be glad to help you in whatever way we can.