Getting Started with Mazamas Climbing

Climb Application Overview

The system we use for going on climbs may seem a bit confusing at first, but it’s really very simple.  The general procedure is:

1. Get a climb schedule.  The summer climb schedule is printed in the April Mazama bulletin, and is available at the Mazama Mountaineering Center, or on this website. The website is the most up to date version of the climb schedule. (If you prefer, call us and we can mail you one.)
2. Choose the climb(s) you want to apply for.  Be sure and choose a climb for which you have proper skills and experience.
3. Purchase a climb card for each climb for which you are applying.
4. Fill out the climb card and mail it directly to the climb leader. The first day to submit climb cards is April 15! Cards submitted before this date will be rejected by the leader.(Example of a completed climb card)
5. Wait for a response from the leader.

Tips for getting on climbs

Sometimes we hear grumbles that it’s hard to get on Mazamas climbs.  Not so, if you follow a few pointers!  Check our top tips for getting on Mazamas climbs

What routes are best for a beginner? 

Typically folks new to climbing start with routes graded “A” and work up from there.  We’ve assembled a list of popular NW routes intended for graduates of our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP) or those with equivalent skills, and it’s a good start if you are looking for route ideas.

Deciphering the climb schedule

We use a system of codes and grades to allow us to print the schedule with the the most information possible in our moonthly printed bulletin, which has limited space.  Here’s a guide on translating the “secret code”:

Climb Number
Each climb has a unique identifying number.  This number must be included on the “application for Climb” card.  When making inquiries about a climb, this number should be referenced.

Restriction codes
Most Mazamas climbs are open to anyone who applies.  Some leaders prefer to restrict their climbs in some manner.  These “restriction codes” are listed below:

(+) Indicates there is a pack-in to base camp (not car-to car in one day)
(C) Classic Climbers (relaxed pace) applicants get preference.
(E) Exploratory - Indicates the leader has not previously climbed this route
(F) Family climb - kid friendly at a moderate pace
(H) Hike to the Summit - nonmembers given preference on a glaciated peak climb
(L) Linked Climbs - climbers must apply for two or more climbs from the same base camp on the same trip.
(A) Adjacent Climbs - climbers may apply for two or more climbs located in a similar area. 
(P) Explorer Post Scouts applicants get preference.
(S) Ski Mountaineering climb - backcountry ski or snowboard gear required
(Y) For Adventurous Young Mazamas - under 40 applicants get preference.

Climb Grades
Mazamas climbs are graded to indicate approximate experience and/or ability levels required. 
You can think of the grades as approximately:  A/B = beginner, B/C = intermediate, C/D = intermediate/advanced, and D/E = advanced
The grades are:
A - May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, and self-arrest. (examples: Mt. St. Helens, Mt Adams)
B - May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep slopes, self arrest, glacier travel, and roped climbing. (examples: Mt. Hood South Side, Middle Sister)
C - May require off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep snow slopes, self arrest, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue skills, belaying, rappelling, and low 5th class rock climbing.  (examples: DC and Emmons on Mt. Rainier, Mt Washington in Oregon)
D - Ice ax and crampon use on steep snow slopes, glacier travel and crevasse rescue, self-arrest, belaying, rappelling and 5th class rock climbing.  (examples: West Ridge of Mt. Stuart, Mt Hood, Sandy Glacier Headwall)
E - Multi-pitch technical routes same as “D”, with high degree of self-sufficiency and proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing high angle leads, setting protection and anchors.  (examples: North ridge of Mt. Stuart, Beckey Route, Liberty Bell)

Climb Application Cards (a.k.a. “climb cards”)

Climb cards may be purchased in one of three ways:

1. With a credit card over the phone (503-227-2345, ext 1)
2. By mail
3. In person at the Mazama Mountaineering Center

Member Cards: $15.00; Non-member Cards: $25.00

To buy climb cards over the phone:

• Call us (503-227-2345) with your credit card ready.  We’ll need your number and expiration date, name, address, and how many cards you want.
• We’ll mail the cards to you that day, along with your credit card receipt.

To buy climb cards by mail:

• Calculate the total cost of the cards.
• Write a note with how many cards you want, if they are member or nonmember cards, and the name / address where the cards are to be sent.
• Mail the note and a check for the total amount to the Mazamas.

To buy climb cards in person

• Visit the Mazama Mountaineering Center during our normal office hours. (Come on down, we’d love to see you anyway!)
• Pay with cash, check or credit card for the number of cards you want.

Climb Applications - the small print

To sign up for a climb, you mail the climb card directly to the climb leader.  Leader addresses and telephone listings are listed on the back page of the April climb schedule.  If you need a leader address, just call us at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 503-227-2345 and we’ll give it to you.
 
Do not mail your card to the Mazama Mountaineering Center.  Make sure the return postcard portion of the card has a stamp and YOUR address. Make sure you fill out both sides of the card and truthfully answer all the questions. Make sure that you include an emergency contact name and phone number.  Example of a completed climb card

“A”, “B” and “C” grade sign-up is by mail only, using three-part “Application for Climb” card (see following). Climb applicants should list recent climbing experience in the space provided, ar attach a seperate climb resume.

“D” and “E” grade sign-up is done through direct contact with individual climb leaders. If accepted, most “D” and “E” leaders will then require an “Application for Climb” card. If telephone contact with “D” or “E” leaders is not possible, applicants may send letters including thorough listings of experience, formal instruction, etc. with the climb card. 

Advance sign-up period

In order to give each applicant the same time frame in which to apply for climbs, for summer climbs,  applications may not be mailed to leaders prior to April 15. Applications mailed prior to that date will either be refused or the applicant placed on an alternate list.

Multi Climb Applications

During the advance sign-up period, applicants may apply for only one climb of the same grade on each peak chosen. Applicants applying for more than one climb of the same grade on the same peak either will not be accepted or become an alternate on climbs of that peak after the earliest climb applied for, whether or not accepted on the earlier climb.  (Essentially, we do not want you to apply for five Mt. Hood South side climbs, get on three, and then cancel two.)

Climbing with a friend

If you wish to climb with a partner, friend, spouse etc., it’s a good idea to include your climb card and their climb card in a single envelope with a note that you want to climb together. Leaders will try to accommodate these requests based on space available and the experience levels.

Notification

Your climb card (the portion of the application with the post card with your return address) will be sent back to you after the leader has studied your qualifications and determined if he/she will include you in the climb party.  Keep this returned card!  It’s your only way to get a refund if the climb is cancelled for any reason at a later date.

Refusal

If your climb card comes back to you with a rejection, your climb fee can be refunded either in cash or with a new climb card by turning in the climb card to the Mazama Mountaineering Center.  (Basically, you only pay for the climb if you are accepted.)

Acceptance

If your climb card comes back to you with an acceptance, you are officially a member of the climb party. Keep the card, in case the climb is canceled. Mark the date on your calendar.

Climb Prospectus

A prospectus is mailed to each party member by the climb leader about two weeks prior to the climb. It will contain such information as names/addresses of party members, equipment required, description of the route, experience required, travel instructions, meeting place, etc.  If at all possible, please make carpool arrangements from this contact information.

Equipment

All equipment, except for climbing ropes, is the responsibility of the each party member.  You may make your own determination if you need to rent or buy the required equipment.  If you do not bring the required equipment on the climb, the leader may refuse to include you in the party.  If the route requires it, the leader typically supplies gear such as pickets, ice screws and rock protection

Transportation

Transportation to and from the mountain is the responsibility of individual party members. Leaders will include a list of party members with the prospectus as an aid to arranging car pooling. Carpooling is strongly encouraged for gas savings, building team morale by getting to know some of your climb team, and safety - driving home alone and sleepy after a long climb is a bad idea.
The Mazamas suggest a gas contribution to the driver of 15 cents per mile.

Cancellation

If unable to participate on a climb after having been accepted, notify the climb leader immediately. “No shows” and those who cancel at the last moment deprive others of the opportunity to climb. Such thoughtless climbers are reported on lists distributed to leaders for use in considering applicants. If you cancel after being accepted on a climb, your climb fee is non-refundable.
 

Refunds

If the leader cancels a climb in town or before starting out from the trailhead, your climb fee can be refunded either in cash or with a new climb card by turning in the canceled climb card to the Mazama Mountaineering Center.  So, please keep ALL climb cards that are returned to you by the leader, if you are accepted or not.