Sample Route Description

This is just a sample of the more than 100 route descriptions you can find on the member pages of the Mazamas website.

If you’d like to visit the actual Route Description pages, you can if you are a member.

This is one of the many benefits of joining the Mazamas.  (If you’re a member and need the password to access these pages, just and ask for it.)

(NOTE: This general information is for trip planning purposes only, and is not a substitute for a detailed guidebook route description or for actual experience.  Skills required and difficulty can vary widely depending on weather and route conditions.)

Peak: Middle Sister

Route: Hayden Glacier / North Ridge

Elevation: 10,047 feet

Mazama climb grade (A-E) :  B

Approx. vertical gain from trailhead to summit: 5,100 vertical feet

One way driving distance from Portland: 170 miles

Approx. one way driving time from Portland: 3 hours (approx.)

Typical climb length: _____car to car in one day __X__car to car in two or more days

Typical climbing season: _____spring-summer __X__summer-autumn

Glaciated peak (satisfies Mazamas membership requirement): __X__Yes _____No

Typical climbing skills required (can vary depending on season and route conditions)
Rock: steepest pitch is:  _x_<=3rd class ___ 4th class ___ >5th class
Snow: steepest pitch is: _x_<=35 degrees ___ 35-50 degrees ___>50 degrees
Crevasse rescue required? ___Yes _x_No
Rappelling required? ___Yes _x_No

Typical gear required (can vary depending on season and route conditions)
Snow Climbing

Comments:
“Middle” in difficulty between South and North Sister, this is a nice climb with a great approach - just about 5 miles and 1500 vertical feet to great camping at treeline (from the east).  A bit of snow travel, gentle slopes, and one pitch of steep near the top make this a good route for those looking for a moderate multi-day trip.

Think you don’t need to rope up on the Hayden Glacier?  You might want to reconsider after you see the crevasse in the photo below!  There are some B I G crevasses on this benign looking glacier that you may not see at all until late season.  Roping up on the Hayden Glacier is highly recommended.  If you want to climb Middle Sister unroped, the south ridge is the way to go.

The North Ridge route can be approached from the east via the Pole Creek trailhead and Hayden Glacier, or from the west via the Frog Camp / Obsidian Falls trailhead and the Renfrew Glacier.  Either way, the actual climbing route is the same.  Early season ascents are possible, but a GPS or solid compass skills are recommended if the approach trail is snow covered.

Books (always available from the reserve guidebook collection at the Mazama Library)
Oregon High, by Jeff Thomas

Useful phone numbers
Sisters Ranger Station, Deschutes Nat. Forest:  541-549-7700

Maps
USGS 7 ½ minute series, North Sister, Geo-Graphics, Three Sisters, and USFS Three Sisters Wilderness

Web
USGS Volcanoes; 3 Sisters:  http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Sisters/
OR and WA mountain weather, avalanche forecasts and trip reports - See the Mazamas Link page for current links
http://www.fs.fed.us/recreation/ Forest Service Offices Link
Summitpost link

Photos
Middle and North Sister, looking north
A big crevasse on the Hayden Glacier Photo: Dani Evenson