Welcome to our winter climb season! Here at the Mazamas, winter climbs run from Jan 1 to April 30. The good news is that, during the winter, the mountains have fewer climbers and more snow. The bad news is that the weather tends to be much less predictable and avalanche danger much greater. Therefore, the Mazamas conduct winter climbs a little differently from those that take place during the summer.
First of all, in order to accommodate the impromptu nature of Winter Climbs, as in “Hey, the weather looks good next Wednesday. Let’s go!” the Climb Application procedure is more flexible:
- Obtain a winter climb schedule (available in the January bulletin, at the Mazama Mountaineering Center office or on the Mazama website)
- Choose the climb(s) you wish to apply for.
- Purchase a climb card for each climb you are applying for. (Climb cards don’t expire, so if you don’t use them during the winter, you can use them for summer climbs. Call us at the Mazama Mountaineering Center at 503-227-2345 if you have any questions.)
- Contact the leader for each climb that you would like to apply for.
- You may want to email the climb leader a copy of your climb resume with a personal note highlighting some of the reasons why you would be an exceptional candidate for a spot on this particular climb.
- Wait for a call/email from the leader letting you know when a climb is planned.
- Don’t freak out if you don’t get a call when the sun has been shining for three days; some climb leader have lives and may not be able to climb at every opportunity.
- If you think there is an opportunity to climb, dropping a friendly note asking if they have any plans for upcoming climbs may be a good way to keep yourself in the loop.
- Dropping a friendly note every week is a good way to get yourself perceived as a little jumpy and thus, not an exceptional candidate for a spot on this particular climb.
- If you are available for the climb, let the climb leader know.
- The climb leader should then send you a climb prospectus.
- Arrive promptly at the appointed meeting place.
- Bring a properly completed climb card (no stamp necessary).
- Bring batteries for the transceiver. Unless told otherwise, bring both AA and AAA just to be safe, as different transceivers take different batteries.
Because of increased avalanche danger during the winter climbing season, climb leaders will provide shovels, avalanche probes and transceivers for the climb team. Climb leaders will NOT provide batteries. If you own these tools, please bring them and let the climb leader know that you have them.
Note that grading of climbs is increased for winter.
Codes: (E) = Exploratory, (P)=Provisional Climb. A plus (+) indicates an overnight is involved.
Means of travel: F=foot, SS=snowshoe, MS=Mountain Ski (randonee/telemark).
Prospective climbers should call leaders for additional info and exact dates.
Note: AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVERS MUST BE CARRIED BY ALL CLIMBERS ON ALL WINTER CLIMBS.
Climbers are to furnish their own batteries for the transceivers. Bring 4 Size AAA batteries per climber.
Any leader interested in additional winter climbs, please contact the MMC at 503-227-2345 ext. 1 or email us at
The schedule below is for 2008 winter climb season (last updated Jan 9, 2008)
| March 2008 |
| Leader | Mountain | Route | Grade | Travel | Comments |
| Mt. Hood | South Side or WCR | C | F/SS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side | C | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek | B | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side | B | MS | Provisional, March 22 or 23, Jay Stagnone Asst |
| Mt. Hood | D Grade Route - TBD | D | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side or WCR | C | F/SS | |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek | B | F/SS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side | C | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side or WCR | C | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek | B | MS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side | C | F | |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek/Worm Flows | B | F/SS | |
| April 2008 |
| Leader | Mountain | Route | Grade | Travel | Comments |
| Mt. Jefferson | West Rib | D+ | F | Climb is Full |
| Mt. Hood | South Side | C | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek | B | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. Hood | Steel Cliffs | C | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. Hood | South Side or WCR | C | F/SS/MS | |
| Mt. Hood | Old Chute | C | F | [APRIL 12]Grad Preference BCEP |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek | B | F | [APRIL 18] |
| Mt. Hood | Steel Cliffs | C | F | [APRIL 19]Grad Preference ASI |
| Mt. Hood | Old Chute | C | F | [APRIL 26]Grad Preference BCEP |
| Mt. St. Helens | Swift Creek | B | F | [APRIL 30]Will accept novice climbers |
| Mt. Hood | Old Chute | C | F | [APRIL 30]Grad Preference BCEP |